What's New at RockAuto?

mercredi 28 juin 2017

At RockAuto.com, the selection of parts grows steadily while prices remain reliably low! Visit RockAuto.com now to see all the parts we currently have for both your classic and daily driver.

Just Some of What is New in 2017!


  • AutoMeter Gauges
  • More Carter Fuel Pumps
  • Southern Truck Lift Kits, Lights and Accessories
  • APEX Gaskets
  • Transmaxx Transmission Parts
  • Melling Engine Parts



What's New at RockAuto?

Parting out: 1999 B5 Passat 1.8T blue auto sedan, Campbellsville KY

Not a TDI, of course, but has many interchangeable parts. Let me know what you want, body is really clean but the interior is hit or miss. The car will run and drive, but will occasionally flash the oil light - presumably some sludge issues. Steering rack is toast.

















Parting out: 1999 B5 Passat 1.8T blue auto sedan, Campbellsville KY

Feeler for 01 ALH

Well I'm pretty much finished with my ALH resurrection but don't really need a commuter car because my new position is only a 15 min commute. Curious to see how much it would be worth or if anyone had a mint rolling chassis a transplant.

The body and interior are nothing to write home about, but the engine/trans are solid. It's a shame what people do to there cars.

Engine:
Brand new AMC head (pistons/rings good, compression test were over 400 across, cylinder walls had clear cross hatching)
100k timing kit
11mm IP
New DLC 520 nozzles
Egr deleted with PD150 manifold
Brand new vnt15 turbo (Malhe)
New radiator
New Buzz ken 2.5" turbo back x2 resonators

Trans:
100k 02J 5 speed swap
New clutch/flywheel Sachs Quiet
New axels
New starter

Suspension:
New control arms
New ball joints
New tie rods
New tires all around

Tune:
Stage 1 and 3 Malone tunes with dynamic idle/deletes


Feeler for 01 ALH

Battery only begins charging once RPMs reach 1500?

Recently my 2010 TDI sportwagen died while at the mechanic for something else.
I came to reclaim it and they said "You can't drive it! The alternator isn't charging!"
I got the car home without issue and charged the battery up.
Curious, I hooked up the VAG-COM and took it for a drive.

At startup, battery voltage showed 12.46V with a dip to 10.72 when cranking.
Generator load, however, sat at 0%. I panicked thinking this was the problem they described. However, once I started driving and the RPMs exceeded *1500* the alternator began charging! (Load while cruising ~41% and Voltage showing 13.83V). If I stopped at a light and RPMs fell back to idle @966 RPM the alternator would continue to charge, no problem.

My conclusion was that at the dealer they had started the car and left it idling while testing the other issue. But because the RPMs had never exceeded 1500 it subsequently drained the battery. This would also explain why it's never happened to me because I've never simply started the car and left it to idle.

But the question remains: What gives?
Is this normal behavior? Some form of energy savings idea?


Battery only begins charging once RPMs reach 1500?

Another Battery light ?

Can't seem to shake this one. I've confirmed that the battery is good (new) and alternator(new 14+v when running) are working properly. Also have checked continuity between the 2 wires on the connector and the 4 connecter above starter. Would a brake in the wire between the 4 connector and the light on the dash cause it to illuminate? Any other ideas?


Another Battery light ?

FS: MK7 Front Swaybar Neuspeed & Endlinks SuprePro

FS: MK7 Front Swaybar Neuspeed & Endlinks SuprePro

Sold as a kit for:
MK7
Golf
GTI
Golf R
Sportwagen
TDI's included

NEUSPEED Front Anti-Roll Bar - 25MM Part Number: 15.02.25.5
Less than 1000 miles

For image please refer to link below


http://ift.tt/2to1lrt

Can ship on 7/11

SuperPro TRC4301 Front Sway Bar Links
Less than 200 miles



http://ift.tt/2tXFlkf


$350 for kit shipped


FS: MK7 Front Swaybar Neuspeed & Endlinks SuprePro

2009 Exhaust Pressure/Temperature and the DPF

Good morning, everyone. This is my first post here on the forum, and I regret to say it may be my last. This story may get a little long, so please bear with me.

We've had our 2009 TDI Jetta Sportwagen for a couple of years now, and we absolutely love it. Unfortunately, I have codes for the exhaust gas pressure sensor (P047C), my intake manifold runner position, low EGR flow, and an intermittent exhaust temperature sensor. I've read them with OBDWiz and the ScanTool cable (no VCDS), and because of the friendly "Engine Fault Workshop!" and flashing glow plug warning I had a dealer take a look. They threw in (among a lot of other "recommended" things, of course) that my DPF is at 189mL of ash load, and say that it should be replaced at 200mL. Total dealer repair bill was approaching $4k.

I can do the sensors myself and use the dieselgeek part to fix my runner position, and it'll only set me back about $200. The question I have here: how important is adjusting/calibrating the new sensors? I've read a few international forum posts where they say they didn't do it and faults cleared on their own with now issues, but all of the domestic (US) posts insist it must be done. Does anyone have a technical justification? My cable doesn't work with VCDS Lite, so the lowest level software package/cable combo is another $200 (unless anyone is in the Norfolk, VA area that could help me out? I didn't see anyone in the VCDS finder thread).

That leaves me with the EGR and the DPF ash load. There's pretty considerable soot buildup on the tailpipe, which has me slightly concerned that I could have a crack in my DPF core. Does anyone know where the 200mL limit came from? All of the other threads I've found say "we don't really know what the limit is yet." I just want to make sure the dealer didn't conveniently find out 5 minutes before I got there that the limit is only 10mL (and therefore about 10,000 miles) from where I am now. I'm no welder, but have a friend who is. I might attempt to cut it open and clean it myself. What's the worst that could happen? I botch the job, patch it up, limp to the dealer and sell it back under the emissions settlement.

That gets me to the biggest question of all. I'm going on vacation in a week - it'll be about 1000 miles of driving total, mostly on the interstate, with my wife and 1 year old in the car. Does anyone out there see any major issues with driving this car on a road trip like that? I can get sensors replaced and runner position corrected if necessary, but probably no VCDS adaptation. I hesitate to do them, though, because it feels silly to throw a few hundred bucks at the car when the DPF may push me to sell the car back to VW when we get back anyway (as of now, we can actually make money on the deal...).

Any thoughts or insights from those who have been this way before or have a good technical opinion would be most welcome and appreciated. Thanks everybody.

-Pete


2009 Exhaust Pressure/Temperature and the DPF
 

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