Modelflyvning

So, I have always loved the 2015 Golf's ever since they came out. Attractive, fun to drive and mostly affordable all while yielding excellent fuel economy. Then dieselgate went down and 2015 was the only year of that model you could buy and those I found started sky rocketing in price.

Meanwhile a few trips to Europe I rented 3 different TDI Golfs of those newer body styles. I fell back in love and really wanted one but whenever I would look for one I could never find them or I would find the one A-hole out there that wanted $8,000 more than the car cost new even though his was used with 30k on the clock.

Well today I found a 2015 Blue 6-speed Golf TDI that was beautiful. It literally was everything I wanted (minus the fact I wanted cloth and this was leather). It has 100k on the odometer but it is in near perfect condition both inside and out, and I got what I thought was a good deal on it. $14,100. I just put the down payment on it and have a few weeks to get my loan paperwork worked out.

I would like to get a Malone tune on it after I get it. I want it to last so I don't need to go crazy, but I have a long commute to work and am looking more for better MPG out of it.

I currently have a 2001 ALH Golf TDI. I'll be putting it for sale soon. It runs good but just has too many small issues for me to keep putting money into so after I found the deal I did on the newer one, it was enough for me to come to terms with parting ways with my beloved ALH.

I may have just bought my first 2015 Golf TDI...

I have a South Bend clutch that has a Stage 4 pressure plate with a Stage 3 disc and flywheel. Complete kit with the necessary bolts for installation. Because it's a Stage 3/4 hybrid combination, it holds more torque than even the Stage 3 at around 450 ft lbs but retains drivability unlike a completely Stage 4 Extreme Clutch. I had this posted in a previous for sale thread with my turbos but I wanted to repost it after the rebuild with some corrections

I had this rebuilt completely at South Bend and it has their 90 warranty. I have attached pictures of before the rebuild and after. Prior to the rebuild, it was painted red but rebuilds are painted grey.

I am asking $875 plus shipping.

South Bend Clutch for sale

I currently have a 2016 Golf R and previously owned a 2012 JSW TDI. I am moving to Mexico City and want to replace the Golf R with a Golf wagon. I love the Golf R but the 19" rims would not last a week and it would bottom out on the numerous topes. I will keep it plated in the U.S. but it will spend most days unused in a garage in CDMX. I need the car for rare trips back to the U.S. with my large dog and not large wife. I will also use the car for short trips around Mexico with 4 adults and stuff. I will drive less than 6000 miles a year.

I plan to buy used and want a MK7. I will resell the car in 4 or 5 years.

I am considering a 2015 TDI S, DSG with 34,000 miles and a 2017 TSI S auto with 20,000, they both cost 17K.

Which will have a higher resale value in 5 years? Which will cost less to maintain?

I am leaning towards the 2017 TSI but I did like the TDI I previously owned and I assume it will retain it's value better? Any and all advice will be appreciated.

TDI vs TSI, what to buy?

I am getting the K1 short to ground with my VCDS. I have scoured the net for the best way to address this and the conclusion I have come to is that it may be easiest to unplug modules until I find the culprit. Assuming it is a module. Problem is I have no idea where the different modules are. Can anyone give me an exact location of the modules on my 2005 TDI MK4?
Thanks for any and all help.

Another k1 short to ground...please guide me

I just pulled my dads old tdi in the shop and put a new radiator in it, it has sat for over two years. Got it running and it runs great, only has 25k miles since motor was overhauled. The check engine light comes on usually after it has run for a bit, but runs great. Last night (with about 300 miles on it since radiator swap) the check engine light was on and the glow plug light flashed once and the motor fell on its face for a split second and the glow plug light went away and it ran just fine. Any idea what I am dealing with here. Thank you.

2000 Jetta tdi glow plug light flashing

Anyone out there in the Houston area. I see that there are a few dealers near or in Houston, but have no idea which ones to choose or avoid, since I live in the New Orleans area.

I have just received, from VW Claims my final acceptance letter to have the Emissions Mods installed on my 2013 vehicle. The car is with my son in the Houston area, where he has been for a short time. The only dealer, in TX, with whom he has had contact was in Beaumont, where he lived for a short time. He had a totally negative experience there, with other, unrelated issues, and is afraid to go back.

Any positive or negative input appreciated.

Dealer Recommendation HOUSTON

I originally had no intention of selling my '11 Jetta Sportwagen or getting the 'fix' if one became available. Actual I would have considered the 'fix' if not for the clause that if no fix was possible you had to sell it back (or at least that was my interpretation). I really love my car and just don't see anything on the market comparable for what they would give me. So I never completed the online settlement claim and just hoped to be left alone.
Coming home from work tonight I got tagged in the right rear pretty hard. Car still runs fine but rear suspension got torqued. Wheel still turns but slightly rubs the inner fender. I'm really hoping it can be fixed, but the tow truck/body guy said since it is an '11 they will total it.
So I guess the question is do you think I can still participate in the buyback and get a few more dollars than the insurance company will give me?
I did a quick search around, and it seems like some claim it just needs to drive under it's own power, which it does fine. I wouldn't try doing 60 down the road, it fact I don't think I would try driving more than a mile down the road.
Looking for thoughts of those with more experience with the program and with a clearer head (still a little shook up for the whole thing). BTW rear passenger window shattered and passenger side air bags went off.

Just trying to pull my options together before accepting anything from the insurance company.

If needs be I can go pick it up from the bodyshop with a trailer and bring it home. We have a spare vehicle, so can survive without a replacement for a period of time.

Looking for buy-back input

I see that CAI are bad for mafs. but is there no other mods to hear more from the compressor side of the charger?

looking for induction mods to hear the compressor.

I know its a VE question but I figure its also basic question. Only number I can find on my pump is 029 98 99 1 1 b

Spaces are put there as they are on the pump. If thats not correct where would I look to find it. Just trying to identify at this point if maybe the previous owner when he paid to get the pump replaced they might have put a 11mm used pump.

How to identify pump?

I've been googling for a K+N fuel filter. has anyone heard of or seen one?

K+N 2015 Passsat TDI Fuel filter

I have not been on here in a long time which is a tribute to the old ALH TDI I guess :)
sneaking up on 250K miles... still running well (having a hard time keeping up with the rust however :( ) and time for new pads and maybe rotors. As a poor record keeper I have no idea how long ago it was since I last did this, but i think I have "done" the brakes about 4 times...maybe 5 ?
my question, how long do you all average between brake jobs ?? (in miles)..
I understand pads and rotors certainly vary in quality, and driving habits are certainly a factor but would love some opinions.
thanks !!
:D

Brakes...'03 wagon

So I put in my claim for reimbursment in the adblu heater extended warranty claim and was denied. Like many others I got the check engine light and it was the code for the ad blu heater. Bought the parts and did it myself to save some cash. Then I get a letter about reimbursement. Sweet. Mailed in my form and receipts. This was all last year. Just got a letter saying I need to submit paperwork with mileage saying it needed replacement. I called them to discuss and nothing they can do. It's BS. They just made my decision for me. I will be turning it in and running. All I asked for is the parts. No labor. I saved money. So do they. What's the problem. Like I woke up one day and said I think I will spend $500 and replace an adblu heater today. Has anyone else that did it themselves have better luck.

Just got duked by vw

I apologize if this is breaking the rules. Please delete if so. But if not, I am looking to swap wheels and tires with someone local:
http://ift.tt/2u7AlK1

Thanks!

Selling your TDI back to VW? Looking for wheels

We get this trade magazine for our truck fleet and laughed out loud when i saw UPS had a DPF failure rate of 51% (at 5 grand each!), sheesh....

http://ift.tt/2u7zc57

Fleet Manager: Mark Collins
Company: United Parcel Service
Operation: Caring for 280,631 pieces of equipment in the U.S., including 80,231 package-car delivery units and vans, plus 20,789 Class 8 units and yard tractors

PROBLEM:

Cleaning diesel particulate filters (DPFs) is a critical maintenance task for any truck fleet. Those devices are designed to capture the soot emanating from diesel engine exhaust that must be removed to keep the filter from clogging.

The process of burning that accumulated soot within the filter is called regeneration, which is where the temperature within the filter is raised to reduce that soot into ash.

Now, that ash eventually must be removed from the DPF, leaving it ready for reuse—a process that needs to be done carefully. DPFs typically cost $5,000 per unit and are made with ceramic substrates, which can fracture if handled too roughly, requiring the DPF to be replaced.

Usually, DPF cleaning requires heating the filter and then using compressed air combined with a vacuum system to push the ash out of the unit and into a sealed container, a process Mark Collins, UPS fleet manager, called the “bake and blast” method.

Yet Collins said Big Brown found that this bake and blast method created problems. In October 2016, UPS found itself suffering a DPF “fallout rate” of 51%, meaning over half of the fleet’s DPFs were being scrapped due to cracked substrates (59%), damaged housings (15%), substrates (1%), contamination (75%), and flow issues (8%) relating to restricted air flow through the device—leading to reduced fuel economy. What to do?

POPULAR NOW
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SOLUTION:

To address this issue, UPS decided to add what’s called a “wet wash” system for cleaning its DPFs, a process that helped remove softened ash from its devices more gently, preventing damage to both the DPF’s housing and substrate, while more thoroughly cleaning out individual cells within the substrate to improve air flow when reinstalled.

When UPS started testing its wet-wash DPF cleaning system in the fourth quarter of last year, Collins said, it found the process removed an extra half-pound of ash from the devices compared to the bake and blast method alone.

By January of this year, Collins noted that Big Brown had cut that DPF fallout rate from 51% down to 37% by adding the wet-wash process to its DPF cleaning protocol. UPS also witnessed a 2% to 25% improvement in the final stage cleanliness of its DPFs by moving to a bake-air-blast wet wash cleaning process.

“We’re still evaluating this new method,” Collins added. “We’ve also started using a scrapping process for the bad ones [DPFs] we still need to take out of service, collecting the precious metals within the [scrapped] DPFs, which has helped level out our costs.”

From Fleet Owner Magazine

Recently I picked up a 2005 Passat TDI GLS with 173k miles. Color is Fresco green with grey leather heated seats, sunroof and stock 17” alloy rims. I would rate the exterior and interior as both 7 with normal wear and tear. It has a new timing belt, tensioner, water pump, serpentine and AC belts. At the same time the BSM was deleted. I purchased it with a bad automatic transmission. Michelin tires are decent. Have about 10k left on them. The plan was/is to convert it to a manual transmission.

At the same time a 2012 Tiguan S 6MT and a sweet 2004 Passat GLS Wagon, 1.8t, 4Mo, 5MT (unicorn which may become a TDI in the future :D ) showed up on CL that were too tempting to pass up. Long story short, I have too many cars and need to sell one of them. For now I have decided to sell the 2005 Passat TDI.

The plan is to go ahead and convert to a manual so I thought I would try something different and offer in different configurations at different price points for those that are interested.

For example, on the low end you can have the 5 speed EEN, stock tune Valeo SMF clutch (uprated TDI application from Frans). This includes new timing belt and BSM delete as noted above, new oem motor mounts, coolant, temp sensor and manifold, thermostat, latest GP and software (stock tune).

Other options include new BEW cam, stage 1 or 2 tune, Whitbread SMF clutch or Sachs DMF SRE clutch, GGB (same as FHN) 5 speed or 6 speed transmission.
The range of pricing from $6750 to $9000 turn key, depending on what combination of options you want.

Will post pics ASAP. PM me for more details.

FS: 2005 Passat TDI manual sedan

I am in the need of someone how has access to and is familiar with how to change some settings in VAG-COM.

Our Brake Pad Warning light is lit on our dash and will not go off.

I jumpered the sensor wires and it still has not gone off, so I would like assistance in adjusting the following settings:

Channel 17 - Instruments
Coding: 07 = 01 + 02 + 04 ... since I have the Brake Warning active, Seatbelt Warning Active and Washer Fluid Warning active. Since I want to deactivate the brake warning, I add the Seatbelt warning and Washer fluid warning only --- or... 02 + 04 = 06. So my code would be "06232"

This information came from this post about disabling the brake pad warning sensor.

Hopefully you can contact me through a Private Message or Email by clicking my Flash9 name just above the Veteran Member description.

VAG-COM in Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill area

They say the valve has a bunch of debris in it, and its actually built into the compressor now so can't just replace it, need to replace the whole compressor..is this true?
2011 jetta tdi

car place says i need to replace the whole compressor... true/false?

This was my first time I had a vehicle that had a timing belt.

The manual sais 100k, it was then changed to 80k.

I took the chance that in a colder climate it would last longer, right at 102 k by the time I got setup with the dealer (and the BM changed with it)

With a bad back this is not one I would tackle myself.

Upshot is no more that 100 k but has the 80 k proven to be too conservative?

Timing Belt Experience

This is my first car with an oil temp indicator. What is the average oil temp you guys are seeing. How high is too high?

2015 Oil Temp

I think the all track has a 1" taller ride height maybe looking for something like that. How does the all track get the taller height? Different suspension? Mine has corny 16" wheels now. Would I see much of a fuel economy drop off by doing to 18"'s with 60 sidewalls, would it rub? VW vortex has a good writeup on changing wheel size on mk7 tdi, they said going to 20's took highway economy from 47 (18") to 42 (20") in their tests

Best way to get 1-2" lift on 15 sportwagen

How much fuel should come out of the tandem pump return line???? A small trickle or as much as the in tank pump???

How much fuel should come out of the tandem pump return line???? A small trickle or a

This morning my 2005 Passat TDI started putting out huge clouds of white smoke from the exhaust pipe. The emissions message and check engine light came on very soon afterwards. I parked it. What are the usual suspects for such a situation? Thank you.

White Smoke Pouring from Exhaust

About 2 years ago I had a similar problem. While driving and the low fuel light on the car would sputter and sometimes die. I would always be able (sometimes after sitting) to get it going again, find a diesel station, fill up a proceed with no problem. As long as I filled up prior to the light coming on everything was fine. I took the fuel pump apart cleaned it, tested it and everything seemed fine. I put it back together and 2 years later I have a no start problem. This time I had to get towed home. This time I was approaching a stop sign and I felt a little hessitation, enough to say out load what was that? Then when I pushed the clutch in it died never to return to life again, yet. The fuel pump was bad so I replaced it and the filter. Lots of air in the lines. I removed the line from the filter to the tandem pump and cranked until fuel shot out. Reconnected and no start. I cranked a lot (several times) to bleed air, no start. I connected clean lines to and from the tandem, very little cranking produced no bubbles and no start. I used my OTC code reader, no codes. A tiny shot of ether produced a little start and then died. I've read a few good writeups on here. I have good volume of fuel from the filter. The return is slow, but the writeups say it should be. I suspect no fuel (pressure) to the injectors. Everything I've read indicates that if the tandem pump went bad it would be gradual, not like flipping a switch. I thought about the Crankshaft Speed Sensor going bad, but a paper said that if it fails the Engine Control Module will use a default value. It seems the VW Jetta's sensors all have default settings in case of failure so as not to leave you stranded. Not in my case.

So what can cause the injectors to not have fuel or not to fire? I see there are pressure sensors in the fuel system that could have failed.

I have come to the conclusion that my fuel pump failed some time ago and the high pressure pump was able to suck the fuel that it needed and the bad fuel pump didn't cause this issue.

Any ideas? What should I check?

Thanks in advance!

2005 MK4 BEW PD no start

Hello,

I have HD Bilstein shocks and would like recommendations for good control arms replacement? I would like to get poly bushings with better control arms. I am fairly new with TDI world. Everyday is a learning experience for me.

Now she have nearly 254k miles.

Front control arms worn out

Just wanted to give a shout to S4PHILLIPS for renting me the TB and BSM delete tools. He was very quick to send them out and to refund my deposit. He has all the tools needed and were in really good shape! Thanks Sean

Also big thanks to Matt Whitbread for getting me a great deal on all the parts. For those that think he only sells his custom parts, he also gets good deals on the regular parts. Thanks Matt

Big Thanks!

Rebuilt ALH head. New valves, valve guide seals, cam followers/lifters, exhaust studs and camshaft seal (spring). Both the valve and manifold faces have been minimally decked. Valve guides are in spec and were not replaced. This head looks brand new.
This head is available with or without good used cam pulley and new bolt & washer
Also there are two cam options -

Option One is a almost new (less than 5k miles) cam - it's in beautiful condition, the chamfers are razor sharp and show no wear. Very slight scuffing on the lobes. This cam was run in a stock head for under 5k, cam was then swapped for a more aggressive profile.

Option Two is a new stock cam.

I'd like $525 for the head with the used cam, $575 with the new cam. Also if you'd like the cam sprocket w/ new bolt and washer add $30.
Prices do not include shipping. More photo's available on request.

Attached Images

valve view 2.jpg (69.9 KB)

FS ALH Head - Rebuilt

Good morning tdiclub. I have a bhw passat with a gmr auto. I know these things are pretty much known for failures however im more interested in the diagnosis portion. The car has almost 270k. I dont know if the gmr is OG or not but heres the skinny.
Had P0741 so i know it needs a TC.
Then tiptronic stopped working.
Now in limp mode with PRND432 lit up with gear ratio monitoring and excessive clutch slippage faults
Now im not looking for someone to say "Trans is junk" cause im already gonna replace it with a new TC. The wife likes it to be automatic so no manual swap.
I am curious on how to determine if the gear selector module is bad as well since tiptronic hasnt been working. Checked under the pass. carpet and found no water damage or broken or bad wires and the TCM was sealed up good. Any help, advice or overall sympathy would be much appreciated. :)

2004 passat gear ratio fault.

Where does the time go. It just seems like yesterday July 1st-1867
Happy 150th !!!:)

Happy Birthday Canada

I have a stock 2010 6speed. Ive considered the buy back for my model but the tdi love runs deep. so ive been watching for part out dpf delete kits and one came up with malone stage 2 and immobilizer delete. how do i check to see if the ecu will work with my car?

I need help with ECU Compatibility check

During the summer, it is my wife who has the longer commutes so she's been driving the work horse for a month or so now. I drove it about a week ago and noticed that the turbo whistle is now a ffffffffff sound. I haven't had a chance to look, but my first thought was a leak. It doesn't seem down on power.

Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks!

Turbo whistle replaced with a hissing noise?

My Jetta TDI (BRM) 5speed has been making this noise for months.

At idle with the clutch not pressed, I can hear a rattle. Here's a recording of the sound, you can hear it in the first couple of seconds http://ift.tt/2sYC0mG.

But, get this - if I move the gear shifter just a bit forward towards any gear, like from the neutral position just nudge it forward towards a gear, the sound completely goes away.

So if I move it from its neutral position and push forward on it and hold it to where just before 3rd gear begins is, sound is completely gone.

I've read online that it could be DMF or throw out bearing, but no one else seems to have the situation where moving the gear knob a bit forward makes the noise go away.

The second noise I'm getting is a more quick, less rattly more popping noise when I press the clutch down fully. This noise I'm less worried about and annoys me less then the other though.

Any help is appreciated!!

2006 TDI Rattling, need help diagnosing!

Needing a waste-gate turbo for a 1Z TDI mines about to hit the dust it has tons of shaft play and now I believe the waste-gate is failing at 280k miles (N75 is okay and hoses are new yet the boost will go way over 20psi)

This is my daily so I need something I can put on in a day or two so either a GT15 K03 or K03/04 (more preferred)

Overall not sure how much life is left of the B4 due to rust so I can't justify spending nearly a grand on something new.

Or if you even got an abandoned setup I'd be interested as well.

Let me know guys thanks!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for TDI turbo 1Z (Wastegate)

I have a 1.9 TDI engine. Recently the brake booster and vacuum pump was changed. The vacuum pump did not deliver vacuum because of a leak and the brake booster had a hissing sound when applying pressure on the brake pedal. After the repair, the brake pedal is still very hard to with limited braking pressure, just like there was no vacuum. I checked the hose from the pump to the booster and it seems to be without any leaks. When I put my finger in the end of the hose I also feel a vacuum. The brakes are also bleed after the repair. Any ideas what the problem might be?

1,9TDI brake problems

I've done some searching and it may end up being a bad ground but here are my symptoms, steps.

1. Glow plug light started blinking a week ago
2. Find out no brake lights
3. Replaced the brake light switch
4. Light tray driver's side seems off, maybe bad socket
5. One bulb passenger side was white
6. Installed most bulbs new
7. Press brake with car off and the headlight chime sounds

So, the car seems to think my headlights are on when I press the brake with the car off.

Any input is welcome.

Bob

Car off: press brake, headlight chime

Hey guys i am still trying to find myself a jetta and i cant decide between the 2003 and the 2004. i know the 2003 gets better fuel mileage and the 2004 has more power. any other differences?

2003 or 2004

I ran a diagnostic for my TDI.

It has been intermittently going into this strange issue where it will act as if it is either stuck in a gear, or never shifts out of first.

The RPMs at 60 MPH is at 3,000 and 80 MPH is around 4,000.

This is not normal no matter what search you do, because the car goes back to normal and shifts fine, and 60 MPH reads at just a sliver above 2,000.

I have video of both instances where it is not shifting and will rev all the way to red-line if you allow it, and where it happily sits at around 2K at 60 and so on.

I have done an EGR delete so that code or reading is not of my concern, tuning is needed but since I don't know of any places in Texas I am at a bit of a loss for now. Any suggestions in my area?

Since the engine control module seems to be "hitting" in multiple sector scans is it possible that my issue lies with that module? Any way to diagnose it?

Funny how I had purchased a 2000 VW Golf 2.0L Gas that a week later suffered the same symptoms, and still currently is.
I will separate the reading for his vehicle with a long series of triple banded dashes. Also note the differing names and VINs.

Thank you solemnly!

Vag-Com results:

Monday,26,June,2017,20:17:23:07969
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WVWBF21J6YW605434 License Plate:
Mileage: 343290km-213310mi Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

Mileage: 343290km-213310miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 BD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000AG 2507
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 53AE823BA1EA69D904-4AE6

1 Fault Found:
19586 - EGR System
P3130 - 35-10 - Regulation Range Exceeded - Intermittent
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 HK
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4606
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 00047D77001C2241E9-095C

5 Faults Found:
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00660 - Kickdown Switch or Throttle Position Sensor
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00529 - Engine Speed Signal Missing
35-10 - - - Intermittent
00545 - Engine-Transmission Electrical Connection
31-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 3E78C38F3A6894B1DB-4AE6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: 09 AIRBAG VW5 0003
Coding: 12345
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 356ADCA30F5E57E90A-4AE6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx0-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 900 M
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V24
Coding: 07242
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 2C5CF9C7DC14162165-5120

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X2124965
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X2124965

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 70E42DB730BC32C119-5102

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 1C0-962-258-II.lbl
Part No: 1C0 962 258 P
Component: 06 Zentr.Verriegel. 0001
Coding: 00256
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 346CE1A704244EE13D-4B32

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 04:59)--------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 02: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 35: DTCs cleared
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

EDC15-16 Mileage: 342163 km 212610 miles

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
START OF 2000 VW GOLF 2.0L GAS

Monday,26,June,2017,21:21:29:07969
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20170320 DS267.7
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WVWGA21J0YW106438 License Plate:
Mileage: 212320km-131929mi Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV (1998 > 2006)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57 75
76

Mileage: 212320km-131929miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06A-906-018-AEG.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 018 JL
Component: 2.0l R4/2V MOTR AT V01
Coding: 00033
Shop #: WSC 05074
VCID: 75EA1CA34FDE17E9CA-4AE6

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01M-927-733.lbl
Part No: 01M 927 733 HM
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4451
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 0200777F0E103051FF-095A

4 Faults Found:
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00529 - Engine Speed Signal Missing
35-00 - -
00545 - Engine-Transmission Electrical Connection
31-00 - Open or Short to Ground
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 3E78C38F3A6894B1DB-4AE6

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: Z9 AIRBAG VW5 0003
Coding: 23097
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 356ADCA30F5E57E90A-4AE6

3 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
01218 - Side Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N200)
32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx0-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 900 K
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V13
Coding: 07242
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 2A50FFDFD6E0081197-5102

Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X1577901
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X1577901

2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00007
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 70E42DB730BC32C119-5102

2 Faults Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01315 - Transmission Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 1J0-959-799.lbl
Part No: 1J0 959 799 AJ
Component: 60 Zentral-SG Komf. 0001
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 01317
VCID: 06086B6F22380C71D3-4AE6

Subsystem 1 - Part No: Steuerger
Component: t Fahr. antwortet nicht

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1J1959802D
Component: 61 Tõrsteuerger. BF0002r

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1J4959811C
Component: 60 Tõrsteuerger. HL0002r

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1J4959812C
Component: 60 Tõrsteuerger. HR0002r

5 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
49-00 - No Communications
01131 - Control Circuit for Turn Signals
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
00933 - Electric Window Motor; Passenger Side (V148)
62-00 - No or Incorrect Adjustment
00934 - Electric Window Motor; Rear Left (V26)
62-10 - No or Incorrect Adjustment - Intermittent

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:04)--------------------------

Transmission Not Shifting, Electrical Issues 2000 VW Golf 1.9L Turbo AND 2.0L Gas

Looking for a clean 2005.5 - 2006 MKV (option package not important) with less than 150 K miles on it for granddaughter's use. A/C must work and no big issues to fix (camshaft, DMF). Having maintenance records is a plus. What's out there? :confused:

Any color but black gets top priority.

Post here, PM me, or e-mail.

Will travel for the right car.

WTB clean MKV DSG only

I was trying to figure out which pins on my tail lights do what, to hook up a Hopkins trailer brake light converter. With that said, I noticed my middle lights don't work, and my rear fog also doesn't light up. When I step on the brakes, the tail lights just get brighter.

Not sure if anyone else has had this problem, but I don't know where to start. VCDS reported error 0907, which I cleared once the engine was running. Even then, I still can't get the rear fog to work.

Tail light problems

Hi all,
So I bought a 2005 Golf TDI BEW PD around half a year ago. This car is a rebuilt and I think the previous owner might have fiddled around with the electrical wiring. When I bought this car, the ac clutch and both fans do not kick in. When I press the ac button inside the cabin, it does light up.

So far what I have done:
-jumped ac compressor with 12v and the clutch would engage and spin and there's ac in the cabin
-jumped fans directly with 12v and the low speed and high speed would engage
-jumped the radiator fan temp switch plug for pins 1 and 2, and 2 and 3 and low and high speed both work respectively
-changed fan control module
-changed G65 pressure switch
-confirmed fuses on top of the battery and the side panel of the driver seat are good
-inspected the ambient temperature sensor and its good

Why I think the previous owner fiddled with the electrical wiring is because he installed an aftermarket stereo deck and a subwoofer. And I realize the wire coming out from fuse 5 is not giving 12v to the heated seats, which also gives power to the cooling fans. I tried jumping the wire of the heated seat that connects to fuse 5 and that gave me heat on both the driver and passenger seats. However, I checked for 12v at the T10/9 pin of the FCM and at the pressure switch, which both have 12v supplied by fuse 5, and they both have 12v.

One question I do have though is, the ambient temp sensor is connected by two wires, and I have another two wires that's taped together that is not connected to anything. Wondering if anyone knows what those two wires are for? I'll take a picture and post it here as well.

So if anyone could give me some advice for this problem it would be greatly appreciated.

AC not working!!

First of all , this is my first post in the forums and i owe a thank you to Drivbiwire for providing the Break-in post for tdi engines , anyway i have seen a post in facebook of a chip tuner about a Golf mk7 2.0 TDI 110hp that had an ecu remap to reach a staggering 190 hp on the same internals .

Caption translates to : ECU REMAP of Golf 7 - 2.0 TDI 110CV and 225NM TO 190CV and 410NM
so it made me wonder :
1- how many years of solid running can the owner expect from the turbo after the remap ?
2- can the engine on stock internals really reach 190hp ?
Correct me if i am wrong but i did some research and found that the differences between the 2.0 TDI 110 , 140 and 170 are :
110 and 140 : different crankshaft , clutch , gearbox , oil pump
140 and 170 : different turbos , injection timing (maybe)
Finally i want to do a remap of my 2.0 tdi (141 hp ) as well and i just wonder is it recommended to do it on stock internals and what is the safe power limit for a reliable yet powerful engine .
I do apologize if i posted in the wrong section or if there is already a thread for it i just did not find one to answer those specific questions using the -not so easy to figure out- search function

ECU REMAP 2.0 TDI 110hp to 190hp

Regional forum looks pretty dead so i will post this here. I'm looking to rent or buy some ALH timing belt tools and crank bolt removal hold tool In the Edmonton Alberta area.

Thanks.

Edmonton ALH Timing belt tools needed.

Considering the fix- not sure if I have missed timeline to register for the fix.

Is it too late?

Just a friendly reminder...
If you let your dealer refill your DEF they charge you $39-49.
If you diy' it, you can do it at a truck stop or even some gas stations with Diesel pumps that now have DEF pumps...
had my 40,000 mile service done today...had them not touch the DEF, saved me $39 )they have a $10 coupon they are giving out for the Def service) so some might avoid a $49 charge ..
Drive across the street to the Shell, and pumped $4.83 worth of def, that's 2.101 gallons at $2.299 per gallon.
Took me 3 minutes, and a paper towel to make sure it didn't drip.
Sure...you can buy a jug...but under $5 from a pump...why bother.

Save $$ on your next dealer service! All DEF USERS...

Hi everyone, I'm on vacation down in the Shenandoah forest here in Virginia, on the way up to the skyline drive, the car was going uphill for at least 1 mile, then I had to wait in line while on an incline. Soon after getting through the ranger station/ toll booth, the Low Oil Pressure light came on and a 3 alarm notification also sounded, then immediately went off and stayed off. I pulled right over and checked out ***. Anyway, there is the correct amount of oil in the car, so I eliminated low or no oil as a cause. In the manual it tells me to stop and have it serviced. I am in the middle of nowhere, so I restarted the car, and everything seems fine. So I left, and the car ran great for the rest of the day.

If the oil pressure was indeed low, wouldn't the big red light stay on and blinking just like other lights such as the check engine and tire pressure lights?

Also I read that the light came on above 1500 rpms for other people, why for me, it came one while almost idling.

I have 185K on the clock, and I'm wondering if I should drive it home and change something, or take it in to a shop somewhere around deliverance land and hope Darrel can fix it with his other brother Darrel.

Anyone had this happen to them?

Low Oil Pressure Light

I just took another look today and noticed while cycling the pump I notice fuel leaking out underneath the car. Looks like a finned fuel heater or cooler that the return hose goes to then a hole sorta like on a water pump tha t the fuel is dripping from. Any one know what that is???

fuel leaking out underneath car

So, the local dealer was good to work with, oil cans even saved as asked and they gave me the old filter as I asked for all parts.

No signs of issues with the unit. Still have to pull the pump and look at that shaft.

Shocked by how tiny the parts are vs the picture.

$64 qeison,k who can I send picture to and even at leas the broken main sprokced for assemenst.

They look like they are worn, most people wold not know it

I have worked with sprockets and the first time I had one I had not a clue that sharp was bad and how dull the things were and how severly worn the sahrmp was

From my eye, the main is worn a bit, the BM dirve sprocket more so.

Chain flexes sideways a fair amount and I think its worn.

How long would a new one be vs a worn one?

I have to pull the Oil Pump and see what the shaft looks like, not obvious issue with just feeling it by hand yet.

We seem to have about 6 or 8 of the 2004/05 in the State, none has reported a failure.

One shop guy bought one and has 375 K on it with no issues.

If I had to guess, from what I am seeing, ours would have gone another 100k. However, once wear sets in it will accelerate non linear so that could be 60k or be pretty bad.

The tensioner looks and feels fine though again no idea how far out it was.

The dealer was good to work with and put in the block heater with no issues (former dealer would not even put a blanket heater around the battery when asked - I could not get the wipers off and had other work and had it done at an independent)

Nice to have the heater in.

The water temp sensor was toast and that's been fixed.

Codes on the throttle body and that was replaced. Back thinking I would have forgone that as not an issue and I could have done that.

Next up I need to pull the EGR and clean it.

Axles down the road but the Chinese ones have done fine.

That was a judgment call, the axles had gotten pretty bad and the wife was making a long road trip. No regrets but in touch with Raxles for a new set to hold for when they are needed again.

Old OP/BM Parts Assesment and other ?

Up for sale is my 2000 Volkswagen Beetle TDI. I am selling it as is. This is my personal vehicle that I use as a daily driver and was just driving it yesterday and then it wouldn't start. I did try jump starting the vehicle with another car but it would not completely turn over and start. So vehicle would have to be towed and not looking for anyone to work on it in front of my house just selling as is. ALSO MADE A youtube video of walk around of car and trying to start it can send

History - I have owned this car for about 2 or 3 years. I have never had a problem before and I have driven this car from Florida to Maine as it is extremely reliable or was and I got about 60 miles per gallon. I owned another TDI previously which had almost 400,000. I have removed some of the interior I have route some of the interior Parts because I use this vehicle for transportation primarily. Because this vehicle gets 60 miles to the gallon as opposed to 15 on my van.

About car. - 2000 Volkswagen TDI 1.9 diesel motor with standard transmission five speeds. This is the first time I ever had a problem with this vehicle I have kept up on maintenance. Has Redline fully synthetic transmission oil. Diesel filter about 1 year old. Have check timing belt in good condition. Purchase the car with about 145k and now has 170k miles. Ac good. Brand new front windshield. Does not drip oil. body is okay, removed interior for space to transport my kayaks. I do have the passengers seat stored. sun roof works

Maybe something simple but I am just selling as is because I am about to start traveling the countryin my sprinter van. 1000 firm. was driving and stopped at pizza place on the way home.

IMPORTANT - Again must be towed pickup is in Lantana Florida price is firm $900, not interested in trades or lowballers. again car ran fine yesterday. you can repair or use for parts. thought it was battery but already tried jump start 561-312-5447. also made video on my phone today can send you of trying to start it.

here is a link to ad with pics
http://ift.tt/2s6dCMZ

video
https://youtu.be/mvZPTNBoLVM

2000 vw TDI Beetle AS IS florida -VIDEO $900

I just had another kid SO we need to get a bigger car. I will be listing this Jetta (base model, graphite blue 5-speed TDI w/ sunroof) for about $4500 obo if no trades happen. this is good representation of the overall condition - no rust or seat tears in mine but a sagging headliner. (I will get pics up ASAP) The car has 167k miles the engine has 158k. I have owned it since 34k and have all of the service records since the engine swap 70k ago. (which is a long story but good news for whoever gets it next b/c I have worked out the big kinks already.) Runs strong, no smoke (from the car or me inside it).

99k - replaced engine w/ 90k brm, new stage two colt cam, new turbo, new egr, new timing belt
120k - new glow plugs, harness, 02 sensor, egr valve assembly
148k - new swaybar endlinks and wheel berrings; new brakes/pads/calipers/rotors
164k - heater hoses, new shocks
166k - New clutch/SMF/seal kit

It has been serviced by JA Autowerks and Left Lane Cars, two of the trusted mechanics on this site. It has a trailer hitch and brake controller but has only towed about 2000 mi over the course of 3 trips (1 w/ apartment furniture, 1500mi at about the 66k mi mark in a 5x8uhaul and 2 w/ a 13' scamp camper last year).

We are looking for a midsize SUV w/ less than 80k (or close) that can fit all the kid related stuff. 2004 or later, 3rd row if possible but priority is a well maintained vehicle. Toyota - Highlander,4-runner, AWD Sienna; Honda - Pilot, odyssey; huyndai santa fe; Chevrolet Trailblazer Extended, traverse, saturn outlook/GMC acadia, Ford Explorer. Preference to japanese cars. No chrysler/dodge/jeep ...

Please PM me if you think you'd be interested in exploring a swap.

NJ: Want to Trade - 2006 Jetta TDI -167k mi (+ cash if needed)

First 900+ mile tank.

901.1 Miles.
It took 17.946 gallons, but I'm not convinced that it filled completely. The next fillup will confirm.

Drove about 20 miles beyond "Range: 0 miles".

Not too bad, just doing the daily 75 mile round trip commute, no A/C windows rolled down.

900 mile Club

Maybe someone can point me in a direction here. I have hit some pot holes over the past winter, especially on one occasion with my right front wheel, and I drove a lot of city traffic in the NY metro area, and everybody knows the miserable condition of roads here. On my 2006 Jetta I've had recently noise coming from my right front wheel. After I go over a small pot hole or bump there is a noticeable friction noise, and it becomes more audible while performing a left turn. There is also a clattering noise when I go over bumps. The grinding and clattering seems to diminish the longer I drive that day, but as soon as I hit a bigger bump, the noises, especially the grinding, return. Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong, and what I'm looking at in terms of repairs? Thank you.

front wheel grind

While replacing a couple vacuuum lines on my Passat I noticed the wire for the ccv heater was unplugged. I plugged it in and when I turned the ignition on to start the car smoke started pouring from it. I unplugged it again and started the car thinking all was fine. Later when I went to drive the car it is running very poor no power at all. The glow plug light is flashing and the check engine light and traction control lights are on. Hooked up my vag and it has 6 different codes 2 for the intake flap and 2 for the n75 both are saying no voltage and I believe the others are for the fan. I have checked all the fuses under the dash. Did I fry the Ecm? Anyone have any ideas?

2004 Passat TDI issues running very poor

So, I was thinking of a Honda CRV, Subaru Outback, or even a Nissan Leaf for a first car for my daughter. I want something that is affordable and reliable... I don't want to have to invest a ton of time learning about the quirks of another vehicle, but does anyone know of sites like TDIClub for these models so that I can get into the basics of what to watch out for on these?

Looking for a reliable first car...

I know this is going to seem like a really dumb question but I have not been able to find the answer.

How many and what kind of keys should a new 2015 Passat TDI SEL come with?

Mine came with 1 fob, 2 little black keys and a promise from the dealer for a second fob. Do the 2015s not come with the valet key anymore. I can see why they wouldn't, no ignition to put it in. LOL

2015 New Passat Valet Key Question

I'm letting my 2008 Audi A4 2.0 TDI 170 PS Quattro go this summer for an A6 C7 with an 3.0 TDi. They are so nice cars and have some more room for family. Only thing in Norway is that almost all the cars you can find are 204 and not the 245 version. I have seen a lot of speculations on the subject about the differences in the engines. But could somebody that knows maybe tell me?
Found some info that the turbo could be an gtb2060 instead of the 2260, but mostly interested in the fueling and maybe torque limits of the DSG box.
Would be nice to know when thinking about tuning later...

Thanks!

Audi A6 3.0 TDI 204 vs 245 ps

Surely someone up here in the Great White North will be removing a hitch before selling their TDI SW back to VW?

WTB: Torklift 2" Ecohitch for 2010-2014 Jetta/Golf SW

Two days ago I found this 1999 Passat with 177k miles for sale within 20 miles of me for a steal of a deal and had to grab it. It belonged to the owner's son, who left for college and never came back for it. It sat for over a year with a dead battery, and was described as unable to start due to the ECU needing reset. It would run for a couple seconds, then rumble to a stop. I was able to get it up and running with VCDS in under 30 minutes.

Before I was able to drive it home I filled up the coolant tank (PO described as having a slow leak), topped off the oil with what was in the trunk (5w-30 full syn I'm fairly certain), topped off the PS fluid (also had some in the trunk), then had to rock it back and forth a bit to unstick the E-brake which had been left on. I got about three miles up the road to fill up the gas tank and found out I couldn't steer. I managed to get it in the lane, where I saw the steering rack pouring fluid like crazy. I bought four small bottles of PS fluid from the gas station and managed to get the car home, stopping every five miles and filling the reservoir back up.

Also - twice on my way home - the oil light started flashing. I checked the level, which was good, and it took a while for it to come back on after I started driving again. I've read that this can be caused by the notorious sludge issue, so I'm intending to clean the engine out when I change the rack.

Other things I know for sure need to be fixed on the car:

Hood lift support
Front right door will not open from outside
Headliner sagging
Door panels are falling off
Driver's armrest control panel is all busted up
Windshield appears to have silicone around it, so possible reseal by a pro?
Center armrest is broken, along with a few other odds and ends on the interior
Truck doesn't latch
Power mirrors nonresponsive
Metal bar hanging from underneath, scrapes the ground
Driver's window sounds like scraping metal when I roll it up
At least one speaker is blown
MFA knob is stuck or broken

Good things are:

Engine runs strong
Transmission feels good
Paint is 6/10 with no rust
No dents really
suspension is good
two new front tires
windows are already tinted

Should I change the timing belt? What should I do for preventative maintenance? I will certainly be doing a lot of reading and research on the matter. But if anybody can give me tips for the issues listed above, I would certainly appreciate it! For now I'm an expecting dad who is also trying to finish building a house, so I likely will not be able to get started on the car for another month or so.

I do have a friend with a B5 wagon for parts, and he's offering to sell me the used rack from it. Is there any reason why it wouldn't work?

Just picked up a '99 Passat 1.8T Automatic

Been a long time since I've been a regular here, but I think I'm about to go into full blown research mode.

After 194k miles, my turbo blew last night.

Luckily I live just down the road from Jason's TDI Repair, so I'm in good hands. One of the things I'm debating though, is with this opportunity, do I upgrade to the vnt-17 or just stick with stock. And if I upgrade the turbo, what else should I look at upgrading?

With 194k miles and everything else stock, all of the standard mechanicals are up for replacement, engine mounts, clutch, suspension, etc... But I'm curious if it's worth looking at the fuel system or addition intake/exhaust modifications?

It's a daily commute, so I'm not looking for a coal rolling beast, but I would describe my driving style as "extremely spirited" so some solid get up and go would be nice. And recommendation?

Thanks,
-Rick

Pop! Whizzzzz!

Just wanted to drop in and say hi, may ask a question or two. With much regret I am turning in my 2010 Jetta with 305,000 flawless miles. Its been the best most reliable car I have ever owned. On Friday I bought a 2015 TDI Passat SEL Premium. I've just finished a 1000 mile road trip and my initial impressions are the "the fix" really sucked the HP and torque out of it. So much less pep than the 2010.

Besides that overall it seems ok. I hate that I cannot get under seat drawers. The Passat is way quieter on the highway than my 2010 Jetta or my 2013 JSW. Quiet is nice. :)

My biggest complaint is the "premium" Fender audio system. What an incredible disappointment. Has anyone had any luck making improvements on this thing? On my Jettas I replaced the OEM speakers with some Alpines and added a small powered sub woofer and the systems produce sound quality far superior to this Fender. Anyone tried anything short of ripping the whole thing out and replacing it?

New 2015 Passat With Fender Audio

On our 2003 Jetta for the past few years the brake warning light on the dash will come on and we get a three to four warning beeps. Historically, this would not happen right when we start the car but after driving anywhere from 5 to 10 miles and typically once we went over a bump would set it off.

The Brake Fluid is at the proper level and the brake pads have plenty of material. They were replaced a couple years ago, but this issue started before they were replaced, but I do think it is related to the brake pad sensor.

Previously, I would pull the drivers side tire and disconnect the brake pad sensor connector and hit it with some electrical cleaner, and the problem would go away for a few months before returning.

Last weekend I did that procedure and now the brake warning light comes on when we start the car and does not turn off. At least we not longer get the beep while driving and have passengers get concerned we have a brake problem.

So, my questions are:

What different functions does the Brake Warning Light monitor in our MKIV-A4 cars?
Since I am 95% sure this is related to the brake pad sensor (connector), and I monitor my brake pads thickness very closely, is there a way to bypass that monitoring?

Our Jetta TDI Wagon now has 180k, which I know is low for many of you, but I would never had guessed when we purchased it new in July of 2003 we would still be driving it 14 year later. :cool:

Thanks for the help.

Dash Brake Warning Light

I am challenged by my vw's inconsistent*level*of power and acceleration. On cool rainy days i get close to*normal*pulling power and acceleration , however when the weather is warm and dry, acceleration is flat, almost like it goes into limp mode, yet not as severe.. If I turn*the engine off and restart,*the low power comdition*persists.

In the past*I had been having over boost issues resulting in the car going into limp mode. After recalibrating the turbo actuator to hit the stop (full boost) at 17 inches of mercury I haven't had the over boost limp mode occur as is was. The current problem seems like a different set of behaviors.

Could it now be under boosting? If so, why would power return on cool damp days? I do hear the whistling sound of the turbo spooling up in all weather conditions.

Vacuum hoses are new. I did see a frayed end of the new*vac line that enters the air filter box. The turbo, actuator valve, and N75 valve are a couple of years old, as is the MAF.*I do not have vag-com.

2000 golf tdi loss of power on warm days

I have a mk4 wagon ('03, stick, in case it matters...) that is relatively new to me, and the trunk release doesn't behave the way I expect it to. When I unlock the car, all of the doors open as you would expect, but I can't open the trunk. I have to either use the trunk switch by the driver or the middle fob button to open the tailgate. Is this normal? If so, is there a way to get it so that if the car's unlocked, the trunk can open?

unlock vs. trunk open

So for the longest time, whenever I have the AC on and after driving a bit the compressor will knock only at idle. Give it a little throttle and it stops, let off and it's back. All fasteners are tight and the pulley nut is tight. Lines looked like they are routed fine. If I put my hand on the compressor while it's knocking, I don't really feel the knock. This is telling me that maybe the clutch is failing or has play in it when engaged?

I searched the forums and didn't really find anyone else with the same issue. Was just curious before I buy a new clutch and pulley assembly.

Other than the noise, the AC works awesome! I did read that and overcharge could cause the compressor to make noise, so I evacuated and recharged but still there. Also vacuumed the system and re-oiled the compressor.

AC compressor knock at idle

Hey Guys,
This is my OH car sorry for my first post being a problem thread!

Just recently when she has gone to start the car normally after the car has already started in the morning, she noticed the glow plug light didn't come on and the car would crank over but not start, she turned the ignition off and on again and then the glow plug light would come on and the car would start. Now I know the glow plugs aren't needed but my bit of research suggests when that happens there also isn't power getting to the ECU

I have a little OB2 reader and when I've got the same thing to happen ie no glow plug light, it can't communicate with the ECU. But when I turn the ignitions of and on until the glow plug light comes on it will then communicate with the ECU, but no fault codes.

Now I read on the Mk4 there was the infamous relay 109, I think the similar relay on the mk5 is 408 which sends power to the ECU, I've checked when I get the no glow plug light and it seems to be getting power and sending power to the ECU 12volts

I've also taken the battery out and the battery tray to check for bad earths and they seem all ok down there. I've also split the main fuse board in the engine compartment and the pins all seem fine.

one other thing I noticed when you get the fault is the fans will just kick in even when the temp gauge is showing cold, I don't know if that is related, it only does that when there isn't power to the ECU

any advice appreciated

cheers

mkv golf tdi no glow plug light or power to ecu

Looking for a front left cv shaft for my 05 wagon with manual transmission.

WTB CV Shaft

anyone got one of these ?

if so which one and hows the result

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk...-150-ps-(2012-)

https://www.diesel-performance.co.uk...stage-2-(crd-t)

DTUK tune box

Hi!

As the title says, I'm looking for the bracket that holds the vacuum ball onto the head on an ALH, with fasteners if possible. Shoot me a PM with a price if you have them. I can do check/PayPal/cash...

Thanks!

-Rich

WTB: ALH vacuum ball bracket

Hello,
In your opinion, is it a good idea to buy a new vehicle used as demo with about 7000 miles on it? The vehicle in question is 2015 GSW TDI. Dealer is deducting about 2500 Dollars from msrp. They say the vehicle qualify for all of the warranty that is offered on brand new car and it would be sold as brand new.
Are these cars considered abused, used rough etc? Anyone bought cars in similar situation and how did you like it?
Thank you in advance..

2015 VW Golfsportswagen--demo car

i think i already know the answer to this question but im going to ask any way. im starting to see coolant seepage coming from my lower timing cover and im assuming that it would probably be in my best interest to do a full timing belt kit again (just did the timing belt water pump and all rollers and tensioner about 10k miles ago) since im assuming the source of the coolant would be coming from the water pump. i haven't pulled the timing covers off yet to look and see for sure of the source of the leak yet. just looking to see what others think and may be the best course of action. thanks in advance

coolant seapage from timing belt cover

Looking for a good used driver side front grey leather seat for a 2005 Passat that doesn't have memory and is manual. Doesn't have to be in excellent shape just not to have rips.

WTB: Passat B 5.5 Grey leather seat

240,000 miles and counting, since this is my weekly driver. The car gets consistently about 45 mpg combined. Of course, with a 14 year old car, there are a few issues:
Occasionally, if pushed hard uphill, the car will overboost and activate the MIL. It resets itself after awhile. The reason for this is the turbo actuator is sticky. This is a very common problem that is cured by removing the turbo and cleaning the built up soot. I have all the gaskets to do this, but haven’t had the time. Again, it’s an occasional issue that hasn’t happened in the last 3-4 months.
It feels like the effort to put the car into first gear is increasing. I suspect this is due to the clutch starting to show its age. As far as I know, the clutch is original, so not surprising. There is no slipping or chatter, and the car otherwise shifts fine.
The sunroof doesn’t fully open. It tilts fine.
The seat heaters don’t work.
That’s about it. To my knowledge, the car’s never been in an accident, has no rust, and is the best commuter I’ve ever had.
Local pickup only please. I commute once a week from the foothills to the East Bay Area, so I can show the car anywhere along the I80 corridor if we set up an appointment.
I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how.

2003 ALH 5-speed Jetta Wagon, Sacramento, $5800

After being quite insistent at getting a call back, Stanley from C.A.R.B called me to discuss the status of the gen 1 cars. Try as I might, I could not pin him
down on an actual date for the fix but he assured me of a couple of things

1) There IS a fix being worked on by the EPA as of this date. They are working on what VW has given them. They are testing durability and of course if it meets emissions standards.

2 He assured me that VW is NOT giving up and letting this die.

3) He did mention that the 1st gen even with the relaxed standards would be harder to meet but did not say if it was the actual emissions or durability that was the issue at hand.

4) I could not pin him down as to how long this testing would be for. My best guess is that VW is submitting fixes and it goes back and forth between VW and the EPA until it is approved.

He did say it was the consumers that inserted themselves in the legal arena that complicated the whole mess. I can definitely see that as humans in general tend to mess up everything that they touch.. especially when they smell money.

So thats all I have... I tried and I did give him an earful ( politely mind you:D)

as to what I thought of the EPA and CARB. He went on to tell me that CARB is actually pro alternative diesel fuel and that CA is not anti diesel :rolleyes:

Spoke with the head of communications at CARB

Hey folks,

Hope you can help. I'm in the process of trying to remove my BEW EGR cooler (broken coolant nipple) and I can't seem to find all the mounting bolts.

I have the top exhaust pipe off, the bottom pipe off (PITA to get that inner nut off) and I found a hex bolt on the top of the cooler and bottom of the cooler that mount it to the manifold and removed them but it's still not moving. There's something else holding it in but I can't see what it is (crappy place to work on stuff).

Help?

TIA,

-lee

EGR cooler - bolts to remove?

Hi all, I have a 2015 Jetta with a nice stereo system,(good sound) but the GPS is so basic with the graphics! It works well...but very blaaa on the picture view. Just wondered if anyone knows, if I purchased the $99.00 "update" does it do anything for the graphics or just update the maps? Anyone know? thanks for your time in advance!

basic GPS

Like stated planned to send these to DBW to have DLC800 nozzles installed, calibrated and balance, and planned to use in my BRM but I decided to hold off for now.

Looking for $600 shipped. They are in good working order as i planned to use them. They have 190k miles on them and i know the car they came outt of, i bought them because he found a good deal on new PD150 injectors.

These are part number 038130073BF

Pm for pictures until i can get to my computer. Reasonable offers considered.

Thanks

FS: Set of (4) BEW PD100 Fuel Injectors

I have a 2006 Jetta DSG 168,xxx miles.
The display on the dash showing the outside temperature is starting to fluctuate.
It is 90+ degrees outside and I hear the warning for cold temperature outside go off and the display shows 39 degrees and falling. It gets to the mid 30s and slowly starts rising a degree at a time until it is close to being correct.
Car runs great. No codes thrown.
Anyone else experience this and have a fix?

Dash Outside Temp Fluctuation

I had German Diesel Motorwerks out in PA install a CR190 Turbo upgrade and Malone Stage 3 tune on my 2013 Passat.

I opted for the emissions fix and settlement amount. Volkswagen owes me approx. $8000.

They said I have to bring the car in and get the emissions fix done in order to get my money.

I really don't want them messing with my ECU or tune. I was told to buy a spare ECU on Ebay and then take the car in and have them flash it. Then swap out the ECU.

What's the best way to get the emissions fix done? I just want my $8000 from Volkswagen.

Do you know if I get the full settlement amount after the emissions fix? Or do they just pay a partial amount? I'm hearing they only have a partial fix that is done via ECU software change.... and people are only getting part of their total settlement amount, but are still waiting on a hardware fix to the emissions equipment.

FYI- I removed the DPF and other stuff on the Turbo upgrade.

VW Emissions fix on Passat with Malone CR190 Turbo upgrade Stage 3 tune

Up for sale is our 1999.5 VW Golf TDI GLS w/ 1.9L ALH TDI engine w/ a 5 spd Manual Transmission w/ 245k miles. Car drives great and A/C blows ice cold. This car was my daily driver and also my go to road trip vehicle for trips up to Mammoth :D.
Pictures:http://ift.tt/2s36bq5

Car has been well maintained and driven by a mature adult. The car runs great and gets good fuel economy (over 40mpg in LA traffic – Fuelly: http://bit.ly/2ugnMvo).
Recent Maintenance:
-Complete timing belt replacement (done @240k miles). Included timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler pulleys, thermostat, water pump, thermostat housing, serpentine belt, serpentine belt pulley, fresh coolant and fresh oil and filter change.
-Oil has been changed every 8,000 miles with Shell Rotella T6.
Upgrades:
-Engine Rebuild @150k –Timing Belt replacement, pulleys, water pump, tensioners
-Malone Stage2 Tune w/ 520 Injector Nozzles and VR6/GTI Clutch – @ 150k miles
-Upgraded Brakes and Rotors w/ GTI rotors and Akebono Ceramic Brake Pads
-Panzer Aluminum Skid Plate
-Replaced all Suspension bushings, springs, rear axle bushings, front sub frame bushings, control arm bushings and shocks (Koni Reds) w/ Audi TT components at 180k miles.
-Upgraded to Leather Interior via Custom Covering Leather Seat Covers
-Glass Headlight lenses w/ Philips Extreme Vision H4 Bulbs
-Westfalia Trailer Hitch
-Huber Optik Ceramic Window Tint – 50% on front Driver/Passenger and 5% Limo tint on rear windows
-Glove Box arm fix
-Parking Brake cable upgrade to eliminate parking brake drag.
-Magnetic Oil Drain Plug
Body:
-The paint and interior are in relatively good condition for a 17 y/o car. There is no rust on the vehicle, but there are a several chips and scratches as visible in the pictures from daily driving.
-There is a small dent on the Driver’s side front fender that’s about 2” wide and visible in the pictures.
Almost all features of the car work properly w/ the exception of see list below for the issues:
-Front Windshield wiper fluid motor
-Rear Windshield wiper fluid motor
This car was purchased from another TDI member who rebuilt the engine after the timing belt was blown. Engine rebuild and Malone tune was all done at 150k miles and we have owned it since 150k miles. We are selling it because our family is downsizing to one car, and the wife requires an Automatic Transmission.
Clean and Clear Carfax. California Tags are up to date and paid through June 2018.
Clean and Clear California title in hand. Asking $2,500.
The Bad :(
In the spirit of full Disclosure, the Diesel Injector Pump and seals will most likely need to be replaced within the next 6 months which will be a $1,100-$1,500 repair; therefore, we’ve priced the car w/ these repairs in mind.
Please email stephen8ATgmailDOTcom or txt 323-761-0091 for more info.

FS: 1999.5 Golf MK4 TDI ALH - 5spd - IRVINE, CA - $2,500

I have a question about good cheap wireless obd-II dongles,......these things have gone from just a few years ago going for ~$100.... to today when there are so many out there today for just a few $'s,...

Based on others experiences with these cheaply offered today wireless readers that work with apps like the torque app....which one do people suggest for allowing to monitor engine functions in real time with an Android phone.???

I want one that will read & reset my codes on my 1Z Passat & ALH Jetta at the very least, but can also read the codes & real time engine stats on Toyota's & similar up to ~09 or so....or even maybe up to the current offerings...I also want one that will go dormant after the engine is shut down not draining my car's battery...

And does anyone know if any of these cheap bluetooth dongle models offered on eBay can pair to a Garmin designed to work with the no longer available eco-route HD ??

And on wireless connections to a phone for real time monitoring of engine stats/temp-boost....ect..., which connection is the best to use.....bluetooth or wi-fi connection protocol scanners???

what is a good cheap obd-II dongle to use to monitor engine functions in real time?

Pretty sure I'll be needing a new camshaft soon and I have a few questions.

Cascade German's website indicates that folks have used the BEW camshaft because of better longevity. Has anyone here used the BEW cam? How different is the profile? What are your thoughts?

There are three camshafts available, Febi and Kobelschmidt - both cast, and AMC - machined billet steel. Anyone here have experience with any of these?

Thanks!

Camshaft Questions

I'm looking for a recommended body shop in Vancouver, BC to look at my 2003 Jetta. Any recommendations?

I called Rudy and Peter Motors and they recommended a body shop. VW Petrolo and he had a similar response.

My wife managed to hook my front bumper cover on a parking curb-thing. It happened twice...When we reversed, the bumper cover partially detached and the lower black part of my bumper cover got really, really damaged. <don't ask> :eek: :(

Sometimes I go out to JSP, but Jose is a bit far for me.....

Suggestions appreciated.
RWW

Recommended body shop in Vancouver, BC?

I've got a 1998 Jetta that I recently did some power upgrades to for power and mileage. Working to get it dialed in properly running as good as it can with new chip and injector nozzles.

Below is a listing of the car and upgrade components in the past 2-3 years

1998 Jetta A3 1.9L TDI 5spd Manual - 206k miles
- Straight Pipe, No Cat, No Muffler
- EGR Delete/Block Off
- Higher 5th Gear - 0.658
- South Bend Stage 2 Endurance Clutch
- New Drivelines, Wheel bearings, Motor mounts, Brakes Timing Belt etc

Just recently added:
- Malone Stage 2 Tune
- DLC 1019 Injector Nozzles and refurbed injectors
- NewSouth Boost and EGT gauge

I haven't checked mileage yet since the tune/injectors but I was getting a consistent 54-58 before. My goal was to add power/torque when needed and to improve on mileage if possible.

I'm struggling a bit with where the injection pump mechanical timing needs to be set and what the fuel IQ number needs to be set to.

The car has developed a slight shudder under load since the tune upgrade. I really only feel it at low RPMs under quite a bit of load, ie shifting into 4th or 5th a bit early. But it is shuddering when it didn't before the tune. I notice it particularly at 1400-1600 rpm in 5th gear, once my RPMs/boost pressure picks up the shudder goes away. Feels like an engine shudder, unless it was additonal torque straining something else. But most of my driveline is replaced/upgraded at this point.
Could this be caused by change to fueling? If so what should I have my IQ number at. Per the malone recommendation I did the hammer mod and currently have the IQ adjusted to around 5.8-6.0 for optimum mileage. Is that maybe too little fuel for the low end torque?

I currently have my injection pump set dead in the middle of the range in VCDS, is there any advantage to advancing mechanical timing as far as mileage? My car starts very good, no problems there. Seems to be conflicting opinions here regarding that... Thoughts?

The shudder isn't so bad I can't deal with it. But if possible I'd like to eliminate that. Any advice is appreciated!

98 A3 Jetta Upgrades/Adjustments for MPG

Hello,

Does anyone know how reliable is the CUAA engine that comes at Passat B8 TDI 240hp biturbo?

Is this a problem free engine or are there any known problems for them?

Thank you.

CUAA (240hp biturb) reliability

I had water leak onto my passenger floor and submerge my TCM. I took it apart and cleaned it, and it worked.... sort of. When I come to a stop after being in 4th or 5th gear, and try to start up again, the car revs up before clunking into gear. I bought another TCM (used), plugged it in, and the same thing. Also, the airbag lights are on. I don't know if that's from the TCM or not. I only have a cheap reader, and it said ECM power interruption, which I assume came from the TCM. IS there something else I need to do to get the TCM working properly? Do I need to reset it somehow? There are no CEL lights, only the airbag light, and Airbag warning message on the dash. Any help would be appreciated.

TCM & Airbag

$5,000. I'll update with pics later today
2003 GLS with sunroof and black cloth interior

I thought this was never going to happen! I've had two additions to the family since I bought this car and there's just no way to squeeze 4 kids and a wife into a Golf...

I purchased this car just over 3yrs ago from the original owner with 212k miles on it. It is currently 286,xxx. PO had it dealer maintained its entire life and I have a decent stack of receipts to prove it. On the other-hand, I do my own maintenance, so have some receipts, but not quite as comprehensive.

It is a lifetime Southern vehicle, rust free, accident free (just pulled a CarFax for potential buyers), and probably has the best A/C system I've ever owned. PO was a FL sales rep and I commute 90 miles/day, so it has always been 90% Interstate driven. It has had regular 10k oil changes (Rotella) and a TON of recent work / upgrades ($2k parts alone!). I planned on keeping the car despite the larger family, but we literally (yesterday) just signed a contract for a new home, so the car equity could go to better purposes (like a golf cart!) I'm not desperate to sell this. It only costs $45/mo in insurance, so no huge loss on my end. Clear FL title in hand.

Since I've owned it:

New battery

New pads / rotors at all 4 wheels

New EGR valve

JOM Blueline coilovers

FULL timing belt kit, water pump, oil pump chain & tensioner, serpentine belt & tensioner, thermostat, etc @ 280k

New PP520 injector nozzles with DBW rebuilt / balanced bodies @ 280k

Malone 1.5 tune with EGR delete @ 280k. I have not deleted EGR yet. I have a spare intake manifold that I want to clean and then install it at the same time. The dealer sold the PO a new manifold yrs ago when the original caked up, so I still have that one.

New poly front LCA bushings / TT rear LCA bushings @ 280k (I have new balljoints too, but didn't end up installing them)

New main cooling fan @ 280k

18" black powdercoated CCW Corsair C15 wheels with house brand 225/40/18 tires @ 270k. I have the centercaps, but needs new o-rings to hold them in place (http://ift.tt/2tlGhl2 )

Also have factory 15" wheels with General Altimax RT43 tires installed Sept 2016 (so 15k on them) and then took them off when I bought CCW wheels

Pioneer double DIN DVD HD AVH-X5600BHS receiver (plays movies when not in park)

Factory GLI aluminum interior kit - full cage, door pulls, handles, etc - NO pedals or lock pins - NOT fully installed (only did driver's door so far)

The Indigo Blue paint is shot on the roof and was starting to fail on the hood, so I "plastidipped" the entire car in Anthracite Grey a year ago (dipyourcar.com). It has been a year and my first time, so some minor peeling at edges, etc. I bought a sheet of 3M black vinyl for the roof, but have yet to install it (wanted this b/c then I could plastidip the car any color I want and it'd still match).

Now for the "bad" stuff:

Headliner sagging

Center console lid broken

'sticky' soft touch interior pieces

Small hole worn through driver's mat & carpet

Aforementioned roof/hood paint

Not necessarily "bad", but still original clutch and turbo

Passenger heated seat inop - never diagnosed it

** 2003 Golf GLS - 5spd - FL **

Just put new ones in and later discovered another broken wire in the harness. They work perfectly - just left the new ones in. Make me an offer for one or both. Came our of a 2006, Package 2 Jetta.

Jay Reading
630-696-0054
jreading@sbcglobal.net

Passenger Side Window Regulator and Motor

Hey guys I come from a long line of b5 a4s and currently have two of them. One is sitting without an engine and the other is my winter beater. The plans for this car where summer daily.

First car 97 1.8tqm

Winter beater 01 1.8tqm that I'm currently daily driving.

Summer car 1.8tqm that I have a 4.2 I was thinking of putting in but a 1.8bat is much more racecar.

And now my 02 mk4 golf. The body was pretty mint until I rolled it into my van and scrapped the rear pass corner of the car.

The car has 396k kms on it, I paid $500 for it with two sets of wheels, the summer tires are new. It's currently running rough and puffing blue smoke out the back. Cam shaft seal looks fine. Head gasket looks wet but that could be from the oil get shot around from the timing belt.

I have a timing belt kit lined up locally for $200 as i will need one of those at the very least, also getting a head gasket and bolts for $20. Not sure where the oil is coming from yet. fluids dont look to be mixed. so the front main seal?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Major oil leak

2001 TDI ALH manual

Anybody seen this before? I cleaned the ECU connectors with deoxit and the boost came back for a few days then stopped working.

Trouble codes:
P1441 - EGR vacuum regulator solenoid valve Open circuit/short circuit to ground
Intermittent
P1619 - Glow Plug Relay Open circuit/short circuit to ground
Intermittent
P1549 - Wastegate bypass regulator valve Open circuit/short circuit to ground
Intermittent
P1252 - Injection start valve Open circuit/short circuit to ground
Intermittent
P3105 - Intake manifold flap change-over valve Open circuit/short circuit to ground
static

No boost - multiple short to ground dtc's

I want to put a better nav headunit in place of the basic one in there now (BT and Sat currently). I have a new 2015 Beetle and would like a VW unit to upgrade to. Any suggestions?

Radio upgrade

Hi Guys,

sorry i dont know if this is the correct section but anyway i will post it:

maybe some can help me with an issue i currently have in my car.
I had a renault clio mk2 from 2003. it was a 1.5 dci 80bhp but i swapped to an 1.9 dTI 80bhp.

The injection is the same used on VW 1.9 tdi engines with VP37 injection pump.

Since i swapped the engine i had this problem that in 1500 to 2250 rev range the car is choking.
So if step on the throttle and get some progressive acceleration that car doesn't choke but as soon as the throttle gets stabilised and the rev range between 1.5 and 2.25 the car always chokes, from 1st to 5th gear.

Already got a new set of injectors running with the same results, then got the race520 nozzles and i started to feel more the choking.

Ran an injector cleaner and some ATF with the fuel to clean/lubricate the all circuit but the problem is the same.

I did two diagnosis one with the renault can clip software and with a universal machine.
With the universal machine it detected an error: "advance timing solenoide".

Any idea what could this mean?

You can see the behavior here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VvRxe_DVajw

Renault Clio 1.9 DTI

At RockAuto.com, the selection of parts grows steadily while prices remain reliably low! Visit RockAuto.com now to see all the parts we currently have for both your classic and daily driver.

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AutoMeter Gauges
More Carter Fuel Pumps
Southern Truck Lift Kits, Lights and Accessories
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Transmaxx Transmission Parts
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What's New at RockAuto?

Not a TDI, of course, but has many interchangeable parts. Let me know what you want, body is really clean but the interior is hit or miss. The car will run and drive, but will occasionally flash the oil light - presumably some sludge issues. Steering rack is toast.

Parting out: 1999 B5 Passat 1.8T blue auto sedan, Campbellsville KY

Well I'm pretty much finished with my ALH resurrection but don't really need a commuter car because my new position is only a 15 min commute. Curious to see how much it would be worth or if anyone had a mint rolling chassis a transplant.

The body and interior are nothing to write home about, but the engine/trans are solid. It's a shame what people do to there cars.

Engine:
Brand new AMC head (pistons/rings good, compression test were over 400 across, cylinder walls had clear cross hatching)
100k timing kit
11mm IP
New DLC 520 nozzles
Egr deleted with PD150 manifold
Brand new vnt15 turbo (Malhe)
New radiator
New Buzz ken 2.5" turbo back x2 resonators

Trans:
100k 02J 5 speed swap
New clutch/flywheel Sachs Quiet
New axels
New starter

Suspension:
New control arms
New ball joints
New tie rods
New tires all around

Tune:
Stage 1 and 3 Malone tunes with dynamic idle/deletes

Feeler for 01 ALH

Recently my 2010 TDI sportwagen died while at the mechanic for something else.
I came to reclaim it and they said "You can't drive it! The alternator isn't charging!"
I got the car home without issue and charged the battery up.
Curious, I hooked up the VAG-COM and took it for a drive.

At startup, battery voltage showed 12.46V with a dip to 10.72 when cranking.
Generator load, however, sat at 0%. I panicked thinking this was the problem they described. However, once I started driving and the RPMs exceeded *1500* the alternator began charging! (Load while cruising ~41% and Voltage showing 13.83V). If I stopped at a light and RPMs fell back to idle @966 RPM the alternator would continue to charge, no problem.

My conclusion was that at the dealer they had started the car and left it idling while testing the other issue. But because the RPMs had never exceeded 1500 it subsequently drained the battery. This would also explain why it's never happened to me because I've never simply started the car and left it to idle.

But the question remains: What gives?
Is this normal behavior? Some form of energy savings idea?

Battery only begins charging once RPMs reach 1500?

Can't seem to shake this one. I've confirmed that the battery is good (new) and alternator(new 14+v when running) are working properly. Also have checked continuity between the 2 wires on the connector and the 4 connecter above starter. Would a brake in the wire between the 4 connector and the light on the dash cause it to illuminate? Any other ideas?

Another Battery light ?

FS: MK7 Front Swaybar Neuspeed & Endlinks SuprePro

Sold as a kit for:
MK7
Golf
GTI
Golf R
Sportwagen
TDI's included

NEUSPEED Front Anti-Roll Bar - 25MM Part Number: 15.02.25.5
Less than 1000 miles

For image please refer to link below

http://ift.tt/2to1lrt

Can ship on 7/11

SuperPro TRC4301 Front Sway Bar Links
Less than 200 miles

http://ift.tt/2tXFlkf

$350 for kit shipped

FS: MK7 Front Swaybar Neuspeed & Endlinks SuprePro

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