Modelflyvning

Hi Guys,
I am having a bit of a issue with the right rear door module. Basically I was changing the DPF Differential sensor and I disconnected the battery (-ive) to carry out the job. So once I reconnected the sensor and the connector to the Differential Sensor I finally reconnected the (-ive) terminal to the battery.
Went back into the cab and connected the VCDS cable and ran adaptation for the Differential sensor and then started the car. There were the usual ABS error which got cleared after a short drive however I was faced with following errors in Centrl Electronics, Can Bus and Door channels. Basically the rear right driver side door has no signal from the door module? I cleared the error codes but it still came back.

So symptoms are no locking and window operations in the rear driver side door. The window switch is also not aluminating. I have compared the VCDS scans of the door address and nothing has changed code wise so am not sure what has gone wrong? I have checked for broken fuses but all seems fine? Disconnecting the battery has certainly messed up something?

I am posting the scans below but please somebody help. The car in question is 2010 VW Golf 1.6 TDI

VCDS scan pre disconnecting of battery terminal

Code:

Wednesday,26,July,2017,20:25:25:57254

VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64

VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)

Data version: 20170320 DS267.7

www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WVWZZZ1KZAW287475  License Plate: BN10OWE

Mileage: 156210km-97064mi  Repair Order:

Chassis Type: 1K (1K0)

Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 42 44 46 52 56 61 62 72

VIN: WVWZZZ1KZAW287475  Mileage: 156210km-97064miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010

03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000

04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000

08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000

09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000

15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000

16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000

17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000

19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000

25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000

2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000

42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000

44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000

46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000

52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000

56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000

61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000

62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000

72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine (J623-CAYC)      Labels: 03L-906-023-CAY.clb

Part No SW: 03L 906 023 DQ    HW: 03L 906 023 A

Component: 1,6l R4 CR td H23 5915 

Revision: --------    Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 00114014032501080000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI02103L906023DQ 001007

ROD: EV_ECM16TDI_001_VW36.rod

VCID: 78FE6D3BC30CED81D1-802C

1 Fault Found:

7345 - Diesel Particle Filter; Differential Pressure Sensor

P2455 00 [032] - Short to Plus

Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00000001

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Mileage: 156217 km

Date: 2017.07.26

Time: 20:13:48

Engine speed: 998.75 /min

Normed load value: 20.4 %

Vehicle speed: 1 km/h

Coolant temperature: 90 °C

Intake air temperature: 36 °C

Ambient air pressure: 980 mbar

Voltage terminal 30: 13.327 V

Unlearning counter according OBD: 40

Environmental conditions-MASS_SOOT_PF_ENVD: 5.4 g

Environmental conditions-DIST_RGN_ENVD: 0 km

Environmental conditions-T_INT_RGN_ACT_INI_PF_ENVD: 0 s

Environmental conditions-DIP_PF_ENVD: 282.353 hPa

Environmental conditions-FRF_STATE_RGN: 1

Environmental conditions-TBA_MES: 36 °C

Environmental conditions-Coolant temperature: 90 °C

Readiness: 1000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104)      Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AJ    HW: 1K0 907 379 AJ

Component: ESP MK60EC1  H30 0107 

Revision: 00H30001   

Coding: 133B200D092A0001C80F04EB901E0091310000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 7AFA7733F500FF91A7-802E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301)      Labels: 3C8-907-336.clb

Part No SW: 3C8 907 336 AB    HW: 3C8 907 336 AB

Component: Climatic      H14 0305 

Revision: 00009001   

Coding: 0000000003

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatic A01005

ROD: EV_ClimaBasis_VW36.rod

VCID: 6DD04C6FBC4E582932-8038

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519)      Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 937 084 B    HW: 1K0 937 084 B

Component: BCM PQ35  B  103 0575 

Revision: 00103 AG   

Coding: 48180A3A9025F1C044080080340000E443510088436D8160648087200001

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 2D508C6F74CE982972-8078

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K2 955 119 F  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB

Component: Wischer 14011  21  0512

Coding: 009795

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH  Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB

Component: RLS 200110 05  54  0402

Coding: 0330AD

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1K8 951 171

Component: DWA-Sensor 00  001 0104

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1K8 951 605

Component: LIN BACKUP HO  H10 9003

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags (J234)      Labels: 5K0-959-655.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 D    HW: 5K0 959 655 D

Component: AirbagVW10    037 0606 

Serial number: 003FKRA2R82S 

Coding: 00003133

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360 A01011

ROD: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360.rod

VCID: 3B74B237B2BA0699FC-806E

Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5K0 959 354    HW: 5K0 959 354

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.V  H01 ----

Serial number: 3572MSME4329364FZZZ$

Crash sensor for side airbag: front passenger side:

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5K0 959 354    HW: 5K0 959 354

Component: S.Sens.Beif.V  H01 ----

Serial number: 3582MSME2370304FZZZS

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: driver side:

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.H  --- ----

Serial number: 3512QSME3A42447FZZZ/

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: passenger side:

Component: S.Sens.Beif.H  --- ----

Serial number: 3522QSME3C3E4A3EZZZC

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY9.lbl

Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 CQ    HW: 1K0 953 549 CQ

Component: J0527          053 0111 

Coding: 0000034

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 03040AD742CABE59F4-8056

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments (J285)      Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 920 970 N    HW: 5K0 920 970 N

Component: KOMBI        H03 0305 

Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 470B00

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04052

ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_VW25.rod

VCID: 3978A83FB8863489EE-806C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 1K0-907-530-V4.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 AF    HW: 1K0 907 951

Component: J533  Gateway  H20 0592 

Revision:  H20      Serial number: 120110F2001200

Coding: E9807F06000212040003

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 6BD442774A5A56192C-803E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer (J334)      Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 953 234    HW: 5K0 953 234

Component: IMMO          H03 0305 

Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 000000

Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000

ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03005

ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09_VW21.rod

VCID: 6ADA47738DA04F1157-803E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 2E: Media Player 3 (J650)      Labels: 5N0-035-342.lbl

Part No SW: 5N0 035 342 B    HW: 5N0 035 342 B

Component: SG EXT.PLAYER H13 0090 

Revision: A1001003    Serial number: 7667750821   

Coding: 010000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 264273435138AB71B3-8072

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver        Labels: 1K0-959-701-MIN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 701 B    HW: 5K0 959 701 B

Component: Tuer-SG        009 2114 

Coding: 0131764

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 3168901FA8F6FCC956-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 44: Steering Assist        Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb

Part No: 1K0 909 144 J

Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 69    3001 

Revision: 00H17000   

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 3168901FA8F6FCC956-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.        Labels: 1K0-959-702-MIN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 702 B    HW: 5K0 959 702 B

Component: Tuer-SG        009 2114 

Coding: 0131764

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 326A9F13ADF0C7D12F-8066

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 56: Radio (J503)      Labels: 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 035 186 AA    HW: 1K0 035 186 AA

Component: Radio RCD310  016 0049 

Revision: 00000000    Serial number: VWZ1Z2K8017321

Coding: 0100040004

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 65C0344F6CBE60697A-8030

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 61: Battery Regul. (J840)      Labels: 1K0-907-534.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 534    HW: 1K0 907 951

Component: Batt.regelung H20 0592 

Serial number: 120110F2001200

Coding: 030B085A

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 68DE3D7B9BAC7D0141-803C

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 915 181 C    HW: 1K0 915 181 A

Component: J367-BDM  H07 0125

Serial number: 00000000002790913204

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 62: Door, Rear Left        Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 703 C    HW: 5K0 959 703 C

Component: Tuer-SG        007 2101 

Coding: 0131216

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 1012552

VCID: 3466990B57E4C9E13D-8060

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 72: Door, Rear Right        Labels: 1K0-959-704-GEN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 704 C    HW: 5K0 959 704 C

Component: Tuer-SG        007 2101 

Coding: 0131216

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 1012552

VCID: 3560A40F5C9ED0E90A-8060

No fault code found.

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:15)--------------------------

VCDS scan post reconnecting of the negative terminal

Code:

Tuesday,01,August,2017,21:50:32:57254

VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64

VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0 (x64)

Data version: 20170320 DS267.7

www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: WVWZZZ1KZAW287475  License Plate: GOLF

Mileage: 156370km-97163mi  Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 1K (1K0)

Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 42 44 46 52 56 61 62 72

VIN: WVWZZZ1KZAW287475  Mileage: 156370km-97163miles

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000

03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000

04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000

08-Auto HVAC -- Status: Malfunction 0010

09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010

15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000

16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000

17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000

19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010

25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000

2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: OK 0000

42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000

44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000

46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000

52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010

56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000

61-Battery Regul. -- Status: OK 0000

62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000

72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 01: Engine (J623-CAYC)      Labels: 03L-906-023-CAY.clb

Part No SW: 03L 906 023 DQ    HW: 03L 906 023 A

Component: 1,6l R4 CR td H23 5915 

Revision: --------    Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 00114014032501080000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_ECM16TDI02103L906023DQ 001007

ROD: EV_ECM16TDI_001_VW36.rod

VCID: 78FE6D3BC30CED81D1-802C

No fault code found.

Readiness: 1010 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104)      Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 AJ    HW: 1K0 907 379 AJ

Component: ESP MK60EC1  H30 0107 

Revision: 00H30001   

Coding: 133B200D092A0001C80F04EB901E0091310000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 7AFA7733F500FF91A7-802E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 08: Auto HVAC (J301)      Labels: 3C8-907-336.clb

Part No SW: 3C8 907 336 AB    HW: 3C8 907 336 AB

Component: Climatic      H14 0305 

Revision: 00009001   

Coding: 0000000003

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_Climatic A01005

ROD: EV_ClimaBasis_VW36.rod

VCID: 6DD04C6FBC4E582932-8038

1 Fault Found:

13701536 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)

U1111 00 [009] - -

Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 00000001

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 215

Mileage: 156373 km

Date: 2017.08.01

Time: 00:10:09

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519)      Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 937 084 B    HW: 1K0 937 084 B

Component: BCM PQ35  B  103 0575 

Revision: 00103 AG   

Coding: 48180A3A9025F1C044080080340000E443510088436D8160648087200001

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 2D508C6F74CE982972-8078

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K2 955 119 F  Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB

Component: Wischer 14011  21  0512

Coding: 009795

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 AH  Labels: 1K0-955-559-AG.CLB

Component: RLS 200110 05  54  0402

Coding: 0330AD

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1K8 951 171

Component: DWA-Sensor 00  001 0104

Subsystem 4 - Part No: 1K8 951 605

Component: LIN BACKUP HO  H10 9003

1 Fault Found:

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)

004 - No Signal/Communication

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 01100100

Fault Priority: 6

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 215

Mileage: 156373 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2011.12.23

Time: 00:08:28

Freeze Frame:

Term 15 On

Voltage: 14.50 V

ON

ON

Term 50 On

OFF

ON

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 15: Airbags (J234)      Labels: 5K0-959-655.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 D    HW: 5K0 959 655 D

Component: AirbagVW10    037 0606 

Serial number: 003FKRA2R82S 

Coding: 00003133

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360 A01011

ROD: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360.rod

VCID: 3B74B237B2BA0699FC-806E

Crash sensor for side airbag: driver side:

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 5K0 959 354    HW: 5K0 959 354

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.V  H01 ----

Serial number: 3572MSME4329364FZZZ$

Crash sensor for side airbag: front passenger side:

Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 5K0 959 354    HW: 5K0 959 354

Component: S.Sens.Beif.V  H01 ----

Serial number: 3582MSME2370304FZZZS

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: driver side:

Component: S.Sens.Fahr.H  --- ----

Serial number: 3512QSME3A42447FZZZ/

Crash sensor for side airbag: rear: passenger side:

Component: S.Sens.Beif.H  --- ----

Serial number: 3522QSME3C3E4A3EZZZC

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 16: Steering wheel        Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY9.lbl

Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 CQ    HW: 1K0 953 549 CQ

Component: J0527          053 0111 

Coding: 0000034

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 03040AD742CABE59F4-8056

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 17: Instruments (J285)      Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-17.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 920 970 N    HW: 5K0 920 970 N

Component: KOMBI        H03 0305 

Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 470B00

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

ASAM Dataset: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09 A04052

ROD: EV_Kombi_UDS_VDD_RM09_004_VW25.rod

VCID: 3978A83FB8863489EE-806C

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 19: CAN Gateway        Labels: 1K0-907-530-V4.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 AF    HW: 1K0 907 951

Component: J533  Gateway  H20 0592 

Revision:  H20      Serial number: 120110F2001200

Coding: E9807F06000212040003

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 6BD442774A5A56192C-803E

1 Fault Found:

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)

004 - No Signal/Communication

Freeze Frame:

Fault Status: 01100100

Fault Priority: 2

Fault Frequency: 1

Reset counter: 215

Mileage: 156373 km

Time Indication: 0

Date: 2011.12.23

Time: 00:09:24

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 25: Immobilizer (J334)      Labels: 5K0-920-xxx-25.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 953 234    HW: 5K0 953 234

Component: IMMO          H03 0305 

Serial number: 00000000000000

Coding: 000000

Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000

ASAM Dataset: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09 A03005

ROD: EV_Immo_UDS_VDD_RM09_VW21.rod

VCID: 6ADA47738DA04F1157-803E

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 2E: Media Player 3 (J650)      Labels: 5N0-035-342.lbl

Part No SW: 5N0 035 342 B    HW: 5N0 035 342 B

Component: SG EXT.PLAYER H13 0090 

Revision: A1001003    Serial number: 7667750821   

Coding: 010000

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 264273435138AB71B3-8072

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 42: Door Elect, Driver        Labels: 1K0-959-701-MIN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 701 B    HW: 5K0 959 701 B

Component: Tuer-SG        009 2114 

Coding: 0131764

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 3168901FA8F6FCC956-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 44: Steering Assist        Labels: 1K0-909-14x-GEN3.clb

Part No: 1K0 909 144 J

Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 69    3001 

Revision: 00H17000   

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 3168901FA8F6FCC956-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 52: Door Elect, Pass.        Labels: 1K0-959-702-MIN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 702 B    HW: 5K0 959 702 B

Component: Tuer-SG        009 2114 

Coding: 0131764

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 326A9F13ADF0C7D12F-8066

1 Fault Found:

01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)

004 - No Signal/Communication

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 56: Radio (J503)      Labels: 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 035 186 AA    HW: 1K0 035 186 AA

Component: Radio RCD310  016 0049 

Revision: 00000000    Serial number: VWZ1Z2K8017321

Coding: 0100040004

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 65C0344F6CBE60697A-8030

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 61: Battery Regul. (J840)      Labels: 1K0-907-534.clb

Part No SW: 1K0 907 534    HW: 1K0 907 951

Component: Batt.regelung H20 0592 

Serial number: 120110F2001200

Coding: 030B085A

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 00200

VCID: 68DE3D7B9BAC7D0141-803C

Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1K0 915 181 C    HW: 1K0 915 181 A

Component: J367-BDM  H07 0125

Serial number: 00000000002790913204

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 62: Door, Rear Left        Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN3.clb

Part No SW: 5K0 959 703 C    HW: 5K0 959 703 C

Component: Tuer-SG        007 2101 

Coding: 0131216

Shop #: WSC 01357 011 1012552

VCID: 3466990B57E4C9E13D-8060

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Address 72: Door, Rear Right

Cannot be reached

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:13)--------------------------

You can see Address 72 cannot be reached :(

Door module not responding after battery disconnecting

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Timing bet tool kit from Urotuning.com - 150 shipped
*Big green breaker, cam sprocket puller, cam lock plate, crank lock, injection pump pin.

VCDS with HEX-V2 Enthusiast - Ross Tech - 150 shipped

**********PRICES ARE FIRM**********

Timing belt tool kit and Ross Tech VCDS

Most of the tools are pretty obvious. But what is the long Allen key with T handle, pointer, and plastic quadrant with 6 Nm and 9 Nm points marked on it for?

Jetta Toolkit - Allen Key Torque Wrench?

I recently purchased a 2003 Jetta TDI at 225k miles (5spd manual). The engine seemed to be in great shape at purchase (no smoke, no funny noises, good power), and the service records were good. I got this car so that I could run something on B100, which I've been doing for ~ 400 miles.

In my last few tanks, I've been tracking fuel economy by taking number of miles driven over the amount pumped into the tank until the pump stops on its own (not worrying about foam or venting). I've gotten 31 and 32 mpg for the last two partial tanks, mainly city driving. This mileage includes pre/post EGR/intake manifold cleaning (it was about 60% occluded - I noticed much better power, but it seems mileage didn't change much). Tires were at 35PSI.

I understand that B100 + city driving will result in lower fuel economy, but it still seems too low for me - I get pretty good mileage on other vehicles and have experience with how to drive turbocharged engines. I picked up VCDS, and the IQ/timing are within spec at idle. The timing is slightly advanced, and the IQ is around 4-5 mg/str, with fairly equal numbers across the different injectors. The turbo doesn't seem to be acting strangely, but I don't really have a good baseline for what it should be like. I tested the MAF by unplugging it, but the car drove like crap after I did that. I'm waiting until I hit 1000 miles on B100 to change the fuel filter.

I decided to do some of the VCDS tests given at: http://ift.tt/2uWxRip, which is to check the injection quantity, boost, and air flow at the MAF.

Under load (3rd gear, moving from 1500-4000 RPM over ~ 17 seconds without flooring it), all of these figures seem low to me, compared with the reference values given at the site. I'm not clear whether these values are within spec, or whether they are related to my fuel economy issues.
(click on images for full size)
Injection quantity:

Boost pressure:

Air mass (I think the "Actual" mass drops off at the end because I wasn't really pushing it at the upper RPMs):

Should I be looking further into why values in all of these plots seem low, or did I bungle the test? Are these related to the low fuel economy.

Can you help troubleshoot low mileage (ALH 2003 Jetta)

Really nice car. Runs great. No mods.
http://ift.tt/2w3E7oK

2003 Jetta 98500 miles Illinois

Please reply when you are able to schedule your modification appointment for Gen 1 2.0L ONLY and once the modification has been completed what is your experience. Thanks

Gen 1 2.0L modification appointment schedule and report

Hi, I am turning my '14 and 13' Jetta SEL TDIs.
I'm am looking for low miles '15 Passat SEL TDI black/black.
I was wondering if there is a place on this forum to find soneone who is interested in selling theirs instead of turning it in?

Looking for Passat SEL TDI Black/Black

Hi,

i want to check the wiring from my G80 / Needle Lift Sensor to my ECU. For that i need to know the Pins on the ECU connectors.

i have the following connector/ECU:

038906012FA

thanks a lot!

G80/NLS to ECU wire - pin???

Does anyone with an NMS have a beefier hitch than the Class I currently offered on etrailer? I've got that installed but looking to haul a dirtbike carrier which would require a class III (dirtbike weighs ~235 pounds, and I've got helper coils installed in-between my rear springs already). I know that none are currently available in the US, but are there any that would work from overseas? And if so, what modifications (I assume it would need to be attached to the frame for some more rigidity) would it need? Mainly looking for a 2" receiver that could handle 250-275 pounds of tongue weight.

Bonus points - for anyone who's had something similar done to their TDI by a towing specialist, what was the final bill?

Of course, I've also thought about just using a 1.25" to 2" adapter and taking my chances that the 200 pounds of tongue weight on the class I receiver is very conservative - on the spectrum of bad decisions, where would this fall? :D

Beefier Hitches

Hey Guys,

I have a very strange issue on my daily runner that I need every day and work nights with. Car is MK4 VW Golf 2004 TDI. 350,000 KM's. The following is what happened:

1. Replaced brake pads and rotors.
2. Noticed a slight shimmy but because of time constraints etc I could not fix right away.
3. Finally removed the wheel to have a look and now have found that because of some issue??? I am not sure what, the brake pads have vibrated and worn into the rail that they are supposed to slide upon.

~ Pictures ~

* Pads are like these ones with the spring holders on them (fronts). The pads are not VW OEM they are Wagnar Ceramics.

* Pictures of worn rails - http://ift.tt/2u1mpF9 - http://ift.tt/2uhkM1a - http://ift.tt/2u1C2MN - http://ift.tt/2uhUbBe

Can anyone help me understand why this has happened? Would a shimmying rotor cause this? Am I looking at a new hub / bearing now? What is the best way forward? I really need to fix this as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Thank you for any help in advance.

Brake Shimmy - Worn Brake Pad Rails :( - Please help?

Hello! So, we took the $ from our 2014 TDI return and bought a 2017 Passat TSI. So far, great car - - until the automatic transmission started slipping and shifting erratically/noisily. Limped it to the dealer here in VA (only 13K miles on it!), they said "they've not seen this on the "new" cars" and had a call in to VW (she said it was standard protocol for transmission or torque converter issues). They say they'll need to keep it "a few days". I'm waiting to see if they can come up with a car to let us drive. Has anyone had any problems with a 2017? Ugh. We had ZERO problems with the TDIs we've had...turn a perfectly good car in and get....this. Thanks!

2017 Passat Transmission (!)

Hi,

im reaching out for help here coz nobody knows whats wrong with my golf in german forums, so at first i want to say sorry for my bad englisch! second is that i am a "car noob", i work on it at my free time but i am not an mechanic or anything like that^^

So i try to write down the whole story as good as possible:

I had 0,216 nozzles and software installed in my MK4 ALH TDI. After around 1 year it started to smoke a lot. So basically the police got me and said i had to go to a "screening/investigation".

well, then i wanted to make my MK4 stock again, so i bought some OEM nozzles (including the housing = nozzles + housing + adjusted) and a motor control unit/ECU without tuning software on it!

well, then we changed the nozzles and when we wanted to connect the new needle lift sensor we noticed that there are two different connectors! my ALH has the new ones, and the new needle lift sensor had the old one.

because we were "in a hurry" we just cut the wiring and soldered the "new connector to the needle lift sensor". Alright, then we started the car and got some errors and limp mode. I drove home and cleared the error codes from my car, but the limp mode stayed. (limp mode = no power, 110km/h top speed and it needs a lot of fuel).

Well, people said with the "soldering" i damaged the needle lift sensor, so i bought the right one with the right connector. Changed the soldered one with the right one but still the limp mode was on! (not a single error code was given until now)

Well, i plugged in the old/tuned ECU, car started, drove some kilometers but the limp mode stayed. Plugged the new stock ECU in and it stayed the same.
started the car without the needle lift sensor plugged in and it drove the same as with one in!

So basically i have no idea what can be wrong with my car? both ECUs arent working, stock nozzles, right needle lift sensor, turbo looks good, no fault/error codes, everything else looks also good, and yeah...

so please help, have to go to the police for the "investigation" soon and my car isnt working properly...

can somebody say where the needle lift sensor sends his signal to? maybe with the soldering i interchanged the polarity and i damaged something in the ECU or a fuse or something like that? Otherwise my ECU cant be damaged because both ECUs arent working right!

Before i changed back to the stock stuff everything was working fine, car had plenty power but it smoked "a little bit". Because of this i think ECU or nozzles are responsible for this behaviour, not the G70 sensor/turbo/AGR or something like this...

so does anyone got an idea? i need help =(

thanks a lot, if something was unclear feel free to ask, i will try to answer the questions as good as possible!

Edit: i also "measured" the needle lift sensor, both are having around 95 OHM!

Changed back to stock nozzles - Limp mode without errors

My Gen 1 Touraeg is at the dealer, ready to be turned in but the battery is dead.

I jumped it this morning to get it to the dealer but it won't hold a charge.

The dealer wants $500 for the battery and installation. I don't want to spend this, especially for a car that I will never see again.

I can install the battery myself but the question is where can I find a very cheap battery that will fit under the seat of the Touraeg.

Dead battery advice

Mechanic thinks too much force could crack the engine block. Without replacing drier, compressor will continue to fail. Any ideas aside from going without A/C in Florida?

A/C drier won't come off 2002 TDI.

So, first post here but long time lurker!

I own a MK4 Golf 1.8t (:o) but both these & the TDI's of the same era use the same transmission setups, so I'm hoping that someone over here may have the answer to my woes.

Long story short: shifting (intermittently) feels like I'm trying to shift through a brick wall that suddenly turns into liquid a few seconds later, allowing me to move into the gear I was attempting to shift into - this is pretty intermittent though & seems to happen more in winter than in summer.

In an attempt to fix my issue, I have so far:

Replaced the clutch/flywheel with the VR6/G60 setup.
Replaced the shift cup with the later MK5 version & shimmed shift cup.
Replaced shift tower bushings (02A301320B / 02A311648C / 02A301227M)
Replaced all perishables surrounding the shifter (1J0711047, 357711145C, 1J0711124, 1J0711067Q, 1J0711067K, 1J0711067N & 1J0711217)
Completely rebuilt everything on top of the shift tower (Brand new TT short shift counter-weight, later clip type bowden catches, shift tower top O2J 301 232 B) .
Installed DieselGeek First Gear Getter (Previous and Current Revision), Cable Saver Bushings & S2S Shifter Pivot Bushes (1J0 711 067L) & aligned with alignment pin multiple times.
Installed 42DD bushing kit for the shift cable relay bracket.
Installed 42DD bushing kit for both shift cable ends.
Installed new clutch slave cylinder & bled all air from the system.
Installed new clutch master cylinder & bled all air from the system.
Installed new throwout bearing & clutch fork.
Replaced both selector cables & selector box.
Dropped gearbox, completely disassembled & inspected selector forks, synchro's and gears to check for damage or wear, to no avail.

Thankfully I have been able to do most of this myself so it hasn't cost me much in labour & my local dealer gives me a decent discount, so I can't complain, but as you can imagine it's really starting to wear away at my love for my car.

One thing I have noticed is that the clutch bites higher than it used to (about 1/3rd pedal travel before it bites), but I put this down to the VR6/G60 combo, meaning it has to travel further to bite - is this correct?

The next and final thing on my list is to completely drain the clutch/brake hydraulics, replace all the fluid with brand new DOT5 and re-bleed everything in hopes that there is somehow water or air in the fluid as this has not been changed at all in my ownership. My train of thought here is that water/air is compressible & that it will slow the operation of the slave cylinder, meaning the clutch is still engaged when I am attempting to shift?

Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure I covered everything I have attempted to fix this issue - any input would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Dan

O2J Shift Issues

Have a injection pump from wifes 2003 TDI ALH beetle with 190K miles.
Car is a 5 spd manual with ALH motor.
Needs to be rebuilt, was starting rough and ran well, just bad startup.
Also knock sensor is bad on it.
Injection pump was the culprit and was replaced.
Also have 4 injectors from the same motor, in good condition.
Asking $200 for everything.
Make me an offer if too much.
Need to clear it out of the garage.

Thanks,
Walter
Wheaton, MD

FS 2003 ALH Injection pump with injectors.

$4200
Located in Jacksonville Florida

2003 Jetta TDI GLS 5 speed wagon. Power windows, power locks, heated leather seats, heated mirrors, power sunroof, ice cold A/C, heater works, drives great, and averages 45mpg between fill-ups. MPG varies on your foot. I have gotten 700 miles to the tank on long roads trips but I average right at 600 miles to the tank on my daily commute. This is my daily driver and I would not hesitate to drive across the country multiple times with this car. It has been 100% reliable. The only issue I had was one of the cooling fan blades came off. Replaced it with a whole OEM fan and motor. This car is really fun to drive and it's impressive how much power it has. I really love this car but had to get a bigger car because I have twin babies and require more back seat space. I wish I could keep it forever and I know it will outlast anything I currently own. This car is ready to go without any issues and will make the next owner extremely happy. As is with any used car, it is not perfect and I will do my best to list the issues that I'm aware of. There are no us issues mechanically at all. 272k miles and drives like new.

DBW DLC 764 nozzles and injector bodies configured by DBW for a hot swap with stage 2 flow settings
Stage 2 nitrided Colt Cam and lifters
Stage 2 Rocket chip tune with EGR disabled
Stage 2 SSBC clutch kit with flywheel
Egr deleted
Cat deleted
Straight pipe exhaust (not loud and sound awesome)
Intake manifold cleaned out
Diesel geek skid plate
Diesel geek full metal jacket sides
Bosal Hidden Hitch system (awesome)
High and low bean 4700k HID kit relayed
GLI springs and struts (sits 1.5" lower than stock)
Stock wheels and 18" wheels with new tires
10% 3m tint all around
Full timing belt kit from TDI parts with water pump all replaced 11k miles ago done by myself and Terry TDI with the proper tools and the timing was set with VAGCOM
Transmission fluid changed 11k ago with GM Synchromesh
Wix air filter new 3k miles ago
Cabin filter new 11k miles ago
Only used Rotella T6 and Mann oil filter changed every 5k miles. Currently has a fresh oil change with less than 1k miles.
Mann fuel filter changed 3k ago

Known issues:
Faded paint on hood
Broken glove box latch (junk yard)
Broken center console latch (eBay)
Sunroof sometimes opens up by itself but then closes (I currently have the fuse pulled)
Sagging rear headliner
I think that's it. There may be a few minor things I'm missing but I'll update if anything comes up. As you see all minor stuff.

Here is the craigslist link with pictures: http://ift.tt/2vqcGZ4

2003 GLS TDI Wagon in Florida

Purchased used. IMMO deleted, EGR deleted

I forget what stage 2

200 USD

UNITRONIC Tuned ECU for BEW

2 sets available. One set has 280k the other has 170k

280k 400 USD
170k 500 USD

Open to offers!

Will ship anywhere in NA

PD100 injectors from BEW

If there is a better place to post this, please direct me. I have read so much on the web about these transmissions I'm surprised not to find a dedicated transmission forum.
The DSG transmission in my recently purchased previously owned 2006 Jetta "bumps" when shifting, starting from a complete stop.It clunks or bumps really hard on the first shift and as the car accelerates (moderately... not a hotrod launch) it clunks hard again.
It drives well on the highway at 65-70. I was going to just add fluid until I learned that my "automatic transmission" is really a gearbox with automatic clutches...

so I took it to the dealer for a diagnostic and the dealer report says "ran GFF - no faults found" and "Hard shift indicates clutch failures" and "Delayed shifts indicate faulty electronics," and "requiring transmission replacement."

BUT a clue for me ... when I shift manually in the "tiptronic" mode the shifts do not clunk or "bump."

In your best experienced opinions:
Do I need clutches or do I need a rebuilt "Mechatronic unit" or both?
Is there a chance it just needs the fluid topped off?
If I have experience with dry clutches, can I replace the wet clutches in this system or is it just too complex?

The fact that it works ok when manually shifted seems important....

Thanks for your experienced opinions !

2006 DSG transmission

Unfortunately I am selling the car because I will be moving out of state and can't take it with me. This car has been pretty reliable, and avgerages 45-50 mpg (hwy and in town). Now on to the good and bad:
GOOD:
-202000 miles and its diesel
-no frame rust that I have found
-Tires are 1.5 years old, at least 60% left
-I have everything you need to do an oil change, fuel filter change and air filters, plus I'll include a bunch of extra parts etc.
-I just put on a new downpipe with cat
-brakes are still in good shape, 1 yr old or so
-it has a skid plate and hybrid (steel amd aluminum) oil pan
BAD:
-202000 miles
-some rust spots on the body
-will need a timing belt change due around 206k
-shifter needs some tlc, hard(ish) to get into 1st and 2nd
-Clear coat is peeling
-rear window tint is starting to bubble
-clean title

Thats all I can think of for now. Shoot me an email or message for pictures or more info. Thanks.

P.S. I also will include my bently manual and if interested, my vag-com usb (old model) for a few extra dollars.

Make me an offer.

FS - 1999.5 Jetta 5 spd. 202k miles, in NY

2011 Jetta sportwagon. Looking for a used dpf to install prior to getting fix. Dont want to pay dealer prices when I go get fix.Anyone with a good ysed one to sell me let me know

Need to install dpf before fix

My dpf is cracked(soot in tailpipe) and I am loooking for a good used dog to install before opting for the fix. Car is a 2011 Jetta sportwagon.

WTB used dpf

if you have a 2009-14 TDI, it has just been announced they have a fix.
"The EPA and CARB have approved an emissions modification for the Generation 1 vehicle that you registered in the Online Claims Portal for the VW/Audi 2.0L Diesel Emissions Settlements. For more information on the Approved Emissions Modification, including information on what the modification involves, the impact (if any) that the modification will have on the vehicle and the terms of the extended emissions warranty, please click here."

The FIX is HERE!

FS Used McNally combo gauge. New wiring and connectors. Includes boost pressure sensor and Type K thermocouple. Also includes steering column gauge pod for MKIV Jetta ( may also fit MKIV Golf ). Blue lighting for the gauge. In perfect condition. Asking $200 plus shipping
0-30 psi on the Boost measurement.
2 1/16 Inch (52mm) Black Face Gauge with a Low Profile Lens
Boost Reading from 0PSI to 30PSI
EGT Reading from 0 to 1600 Degrees Fahrenheit
Electronic Boost Pressure Sensor
Type K Thermocouple Probe with 1/8th NPT Male Threads
http://ift.tt/2ugR6kL
http://ift.tt/2ugF6ju

FS McNally Combo Boost/EGT & Pod

Hello all,
I found massive help when I was building my PD 100 from you all as well as on the Facebook Group so I'd like to thank you all for that. I built that thing and got 200 reliable horsepower from it on the dyno off a 17/22 which was quite brilliant, however, being the TDi fan that I am, I decided I want to go bigger and better... therefore... I present you... the Beast.
-

Anyway, so this was born with an AHF engine but the previous owner replaced both the gearbox (From a 5 speed to a 6 speed) and the engine to a PD 130 one. An ASZ.
I am currently in the process of buying a Darkside Front Mount Kit and will be going for the 2060 VKLR turbo as I heard good things about it. (If you have any feedback on the turbo, that would be appreciated)
With that said however Beast had its clutched replaced literally six months ago with the original Dual Mass Clutch they come with. Therefore I'd rather burn the clutch out with the 2060 VKLR before replacing it. What do you guys think? Is that doable?

Golf Mark 4 PD 130

I am working on a friends B4V and can't seem to Get the Rear Brakes to bleed properly. Still have air inside them. Looks like a valve or something in the rear that is making the noise, maybe a Brake limiter when your slamming on the brakes. It seems to be the culprit. Is there a special tool or procedure todo this?

B4V Rear Brake Bleeding Procedure?

Good Morning all,
last weekend went ahead and bought a 2015 SE TDI Passat...my VW Jetta broke down in Mexico and will be a while until I go and bring it back to the U.S. and examine... I found a good deal for a 2015 Passat for $19,995 from the dealer, 2015 TDI with 16K miles, at least I thought it was a good deal...

I used to do all maintenances on my Jetta other than clutches, cam and timing belts(Jetta has 268K miles)...is there anything I need to put special attention to on this '15 Auto transmission Passat, anything I need to watch out for?

just bought a 2015 Passat!!!

This may be a better prong for an FAQ than a whole post but here it is... Has anyone scheduled a fix? Are they still pending something?

Are fixes being scheduled?

$50 + shipping

Selling our TDI back to VW so these will need to go (stock photo).

Came out of a Wagen but may fit other models.

8/10 Condition.

OEM VW "Golf" Monster mats - VW Golf/Jetta Wagen MY2009-14

$50 + shipping.

Selling our TDI back to VW so this will need to go (stock photo).

9/10 Condition.

OEM VW "Golf" Cargo mat - VW Golf/Jetta Wagen MY2009-14

$25 + shipping.

$33.85 retail.

OEM VW "Golf/-Jetta" Pollen/Cabin Filter - VW MY09-14

Sold as a pair $75 or $40/ea + shipping.

$61.31 per retail.

OEM VW "Golf/-Jetta" TDI Fuel Filter - VW MY09-14

I retired in April and have decided to thin my TDI collection a bit. I love all my cars and it was basically a short straw pick to sell the Golf. The 2 door
2003 Golf 2door TDI is considered one of the finest and most collectible of the TDI's.
A few of the tidbits are: Malone stage 5 tune with Malone qloader (stock tune included), VNT 17/22 turbo, Diesel Geek short shifter, .658 5th gear, 3” SS Eurojet exhaust, Eurojet side mount intercooler, PP764 injectors, 3bar MAP, PD150 intake, R-32 snorkel, Southbend Stage 3 Endurance clutch, McNally boost/EGT combo gauge, GTI cloth seats, glass headlamp lenses. I bought the car from the original owner in Va. It’s rust free and extremely strong. I haven’t had it on a dyno but guessing about 180 HP. The car has 217k well maintained miles but doesn’t use oil. The goodies were added at 200k. The turbo needs cleaned but I haven’t had a chance to do it. It should be put on a lift to do it and I’m in the process of adding a lift in my garage but won’t be ready until late summer. The turbo still makes 2 bar boost easily but car will go into limp mode and require re-starting to clear it. No big deal but a PIA until cleaned. I will clean it late this summer if someone doesn't buy it before. The headliner is sagging and I have the replacement headliner. Everything including the AC works fine. $6000.

Looks like photobucket wants to charge for third party photo hosting so does anyone know a way around that? I want to post the photos direct.

2003 Golf TDI 2 door-Modded

Good evening everybody,

This one, for me, is the big one. This community has been of fantastic help to me over the past year and a half, rehabbing my mom's, now my, 03 ALH Golf. It had, um, some stuff wrong with it; the primary issue is a *tapping* in the engine. *this tapping has been going on for ~7 years, and at least 50,000 miles, with wide variation in various engine conditions, as detailed in part below*
a
Here's a video I took this evening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSgu9Nz8NXI

Here's a quick vehicle history rundown:

-at about 185,000, the car bottomed out in the hollers of Kentucky, killed the oil pan, and seized the engine. A new engine was put in. The car's at ~316,000 now. I bottomed out the oil pan at about 205,000, with no damage to the engine (stopped within about a minute and a half, barely elevated engine temp). The tapping was happening prior to my bottoming it out. I have also made myself a well-insulated belly pan out of a scrapped carbon fiber hood.

-I did some basic recommended/standard maintenance: air filter, intercooler cleanout, fuel filter, oil change, coolant change with the timing belt job; new battery.

-I did a timing belt/water pump/serpentine belt job a few thousand ago.

-It's got a new alternator as of 3,000 or 4,000 ago.

-The turbo needed completely new tubing, as well as an N75 solenoid; this fixed the turbo CEL for a while, but it's back on and off with the ever-frustrating 'low boost' conundrum. Performance is good though.

-I replaced the glow plug harness, as well as all four glow plugs; three of them were fairly blackened, deformed and/or with buildup from the threads down; the fourth, just the final tip.

-I pulled off the EGR and the exhaust manifold, w/o pulling off the turbo, about a year ago, because I had no idea what I was doing and I thought that the EGR might be clogged up causing the turbo problems. The EGR's clean as a whistle, no buildup, but a bit of oil that the turbo spits. Actually, the turbo does spit a fair amount of oil--hence the SMIC cleanout.

-The MAF sensor needed to be replaced. A new one is on now and functioning correctly.

-HID bulbs w/ballasts for the lolz

-During the timing belt job, I had ample opportunity to inspect the camshaft and the lifters; it didn't seem immediately evident that they are the problem. But I'm no expert; here's a video for your consideration:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfR3YW10d0Y

-When I got the car, there was a gaping hole in the straight pipe of the cat-back exhaust, like in the middle of the car. That got cut out and a piece of pipe welded in. One of the hypotheses I haven't 100% ruled out is that there's a hole in the exhaust; however, the only place I haven't visually inspected is the flex tube right after the downpipe, although I might do that soon.

However, it doesn't sound like it's coming from the exhaust. It sounds, to me, like it's in the engine block itself.

I have a backup vehicle, so if I need to I can do some considerable engine rebuilding. My initial thought would be to remove the camshaft/lifters, and inspect them for any damage that I can't see with them in place.

I come to you on bended knee for your collective wisdom. Help me make this vehicle something that my wife is willing to ride in, something that doesn't make the rattletrap bang bang headache with a side of fumes. If I can get this issue sorted, then it's on to actual fun stuff: control arms, coilovers, one o them sick BEW turbo manifolds, a fuel lifter, and some .205s...!

But if I can't solve this, none of that makes sense.

The infernal tapping - please help!

The timing couldn't possibly be any closer. I'm scheduled to do the buyback tomorrow morning, and just received an email saying that my 2012 is now eligible for a "fix".

I already own another car, and don't really want to keep the Golf. Is there any reason to not do the buyback as scheduled? I'm paying insurance on the car, so delaying will cost me some just from that. My impression is that I won't be able to sell the car for enough to make it worth getting the fix and then selling it, but if I'm wrong, please tell me :D

Thanks for any advice you have.

Buyback scheduled in the morning; just got "fix" offer

Hi, so I just had my turbo rebuilt. Did a really nice job. Upon reinstallation when I started it there was a lot of white smoke, as well as oil running out of the tail pipe. So I called the shop they say I need to check clearance, and measurements?? *** are they talking about? He said I don't need to pull the turbo again. Does anybody have a clue about this?? Please

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

Tdi help.

Hi everyone!

I have an '03 Jetta 1.9L TDi. I had a check engine light come on and found out it was the EGR valve. This past weekend I took it off to clean it up. The clean up went fine but, when I put everything back on, I noticed a bit of a whistle when I hit about 1800-2000 RPM. In doing a little research, it sounded like maybe I had an air leak around a bolt that needed tightening. I went in tonight to tighten them up and one of them on the top of the EGR valve (the 5mm one closest to the windshield) is just spinning. I had to go to the VW dealership to pick up another part tonight and asked the guy in the parts shop about it and he seemed to think I stripped the intake manifold when I put the bolt back in. Now, I didn't crank down super tight when I initially put the bolts in and, the bolt holds (I can't pull it out) and it backs out when I screw it out. It just won't tighten all the way up (I can still spin the washer under the bolt head by hand but not the bolt). So, does it sound like I stripped the intake manifold or is something else I'm missing.

IF the intake manifold is stripped, the guy at the VW shop said it would screw up my pressure and I'd probably get a check engine light. I don't have a light (yet?). Any serious side effects if I don't get this fixed? He said to get it fixed I'd have to pull the whole manifold and then use a helix coil to fix the threads.... I have about 15 piece tool set and that's all so... um... yeah.... that's going to suck....

And here I thought I was going to SAVE money by fixing my own EGR valve up.... Anyway, any help is greatly appreciated!!!

P.S. I forgot to mention that, when I took the bolts out, they had a blue coating on them.... was I supposed to put some sort of VW approved loctite on them before I put them back in? None of the info I found online mentioned that but, it wouldn't be the first time the internet has been wrong! :)

EGR Bolt loose, stripped or something else?

Hi

I have bought a 0.360mm ebay nozzles, but I don't know what is the recommended pressure to injectors calibration. I have a 11mm pump head installed.

Some people told me that the injectors must be calibrated 240bar. Anyone can tell me the exactly the best pressure calibration to this nozzles sizes?

Regards

Big nozzles and injectors calibration

Mine came butt connectored... I'd like to get back to stock. Any idea what those plugs are called? Also, does it matter which one goes where? I have no identification. I don't think it matters though...

Female end for glow plug harness?

I've just finished changing front and back brake pads and rotors, having a difficult time getting the brakes bled. Along with brakes, replaced struts, Control Arm bushings, also had to replace right side inner CV Joint, so rather than fighting with the front calipers during all of this, I disconnected the brake lines and removed the calipers. When I disconnected the front brake lines, I saw how bad the condition of the brake fluid was. I've had this '96 B4 for a couple years, haven't put a lot of miles on it, I know I should have addressed the brake fluid sooner.

So I've connected my Motive Power Bleeder, tested for leaks prior to filling the bleeder with fluid. Added fluid, and pumped the power bleeder up to about 12 PSI. Starting with the right rear, all I got was a small stream of dark colored fluid. Same with rear driver's side. Almost nothing from the front passenger side, only the front driver's side seem to bleed half decent. I left both rear bleeders open while trying to bleed the fronts, nothing coming out of the rears.

Seeing the condition of the old fluid, would the gunk I saw coming from the disconnected front brake lines now prevent me from bleeding the brakes properly? Before I have someone assist with trying to bleed using the pedal, wondering if doing this would force even more bad stuff through the system?

Brake Bleeding Problems

HI, I just installed a EVO series (from ECS Tuning) digital boost gauge. Took my time, did things right, this was my second install

I notice that the gauge registered a 1PSI at idle. So my thought were either:

1. The gauge, operates with a +/- 1PSI error or

2. My recent PD Smart actuator replacement is close, but not perfect and the car is actually showing 1 PSI boost on my automatic PD?

This is even in "Park" so not sure if an incorrectly adjusted mechanical linkage like the actuator arm (if it is incorrect), could allow boost at idle and in park.

I have a VCDS and can use it if you think that will help too (I'm pretty new to the VCDS and THINK it's block 11????)

What started me buying it was I recently (post actuator) experienced limp model when flooring it to merger on the why on-ramp. I guessed I might be over boosting due to the guess-ta-mation on the actuator set-up/. I measured it with calipers, but think it could be a few rotations off. Car drives fine though.

Thanks guys!

Boost Gauge +/- error or real boost at idle???

Not a TDI...

We put tires on the roommates car this morning. This afternoon she totals the car. Tires still have nubs on them. What are the chances she will get full value from them? If not full value, what percentage would be realistic?

Brand New tires and car is totalled

I have a little bit of a parts over flow.

http://ift.tt/2vh5s8Z
I have pics on this add.

All prices are obo
I do have misc other parts feel free to ask!

Stock cylinder head - $200
Stock turbo - $150
Airbox + TIP - $80
Id parts lower intercooler pipe - $100
Stock intercooler and pipes - $80
Stock clutch and pressure plate - $80
Shifter box and cables + pedal and master cylinder and axels - $200
10mm injection pump - $175
Intake manifold - $ 90
Turbo oil feed line - $60
Jetta tail lights - $40
Audi steering wheel with bag - $100
Vw steering wheel with bag - $60

All part plus shipping unless local pick up.
All prices are obo need gone asap

Misc ALH parts

Sold the car a while back but found some spare parts in the garage. It's a grab bag of door handles. All are OEM, some are for parts, some are complete, see pictures and ask specifics if needed.

What is included:

3 fronts (2 on 1 side, 1 on the other, not sure which is which...) complete but no keys (see below)

2 rears, complete (not sure which side)

1 front and 1 rear (parts only, not sure of sides)

Lots of miscellaneous parts including lots of key tumblers and a couple of blank key cylinders. Matching the handles to your keys is pretty easy once you try. 3 micro-switches (one has been cut but could be spliced). Rubber gaskets, etc.

It's probable some of the passenger side handles have been re-tapped to RH threads. I didn't do it, that's just how I found them. As I mentioned above, all parts are used but OEM.

$25 plus shipping from 80301. I'm pretty sure it will all fit in a medium flat rate box USPS Priority Mail box. Pictures should be here http://ift.tt/2tSY9kv

B4 door handle grab bag

I have a Mk3/B4 short shifter from Gruvenparts.
Here is a link to what I have...
http://ift.tt/2tT4bkU
I'd like $50 shipped.

Mk3/B4 Short shifter

Any ideas what this is
https://youtu.be/uxM1k1kIebg

Golf 1.9tdi vibration noise In neutral (with video)

For sale 140 shipped.

OEM ROOF RACK Jetta golf mk4 sedan with keys.

Friday the 28th I received news that my 2011 Touareg was not eligible for the program.

"Vehicle is not eligible - Your vehicle is not eligible to participate in the Settlement Program."

It appears that many other Salvage title claims have been denied recently so I thought I would start a thread where we could update our outcomes. Please post in here if you believe your vehicle should apply, as I do.

My vehicle was registered salvage on 11/2016, this alone should make it eligible. My vehicle wasn't purchased from a junkyard or a salvage yard either. The vehicle is currently licenses and operational under its own power.

Has anyone with a Gen I salvage title had it approved, or is VW denying them outright? If they Deny the vehicle is eligible will they have to perform the repair on it if it becomes eligible? What about the free Adblue and Oil Change?

Drive more, worry less?

Gen I, 3.0 Salvage title vehicles all ineligible

Bosch with 7 MOS left on free replacement, then pro rated warranty. I don't have the receipt, but the date on battery is 01/15.

75.00 OBO
Best picked up in Ventura ca....93003

Bosch MK4 battery

2014 TDI Wagon. 26,000 miles only, at 3 years old. Buyback is for $28,600 now, or it goes UP (as long as I keep mileage under 42,000) to $29,200 if I wait till the last minute in December 2018 and turn it in.

So I will be able to turn in a car that I love, but I paid $25,500 for in August 2014, and get pack $29,300. I could drive home with a brand new Alltrack and have change left over. But then I have a 30 mpg max gas car instead. Or take the $29,000 and go shopping.

Or I could take the fix and $7,300 cash.

But at more than 4 years old, I'm thinking I'd be crazy to do that?

Anyone else second guessing now there is an option to fix?

Has the 2.0L Fix Changed Anyone's mind?

Please bear with me on this; I drove my TSI for 1 hour in bumper to bumper traffic, then one hour highway speeds. Floored car to passing gear Car went to 6500 RPM and then seemed to disconnect engine from drive train resulting in very hard loss of power jarring passengers. I let up on gas, tried again "BAM" jarred passengers incl. driver, as if drive train disengaged. Drove rest of trip in slow lane at 65 mph gradual acceleration. After 3 hours of car not driven. I drove home could not simulate problem. Dealer said; could not simulate problem, no codes. Next day drove 5 hours to Va. no problem. Next day drove 4 hours and floored car in passing lane and it quit at 4200 rpm, backed off, floored again 4500 rpm BAM disengaged and slowed abruptly as again, let off gas ran ok, floored gas again, 5500 rpm BAM disengaged slowing abruptly, jarring passengers, loss of power lunge. Let off gas. Seems if car is driven for awhile problem appears. Left car off for 2 hours and drove home. No Problem.
Dealer said; If I can't simulate it I can't fix it. Really? No diagnostic service? vehicle has 9920 miles. BP gas. I'm guessing throttle body failure? Please help

2015 TSI Golf drivetrain disconnects???

Homemade boost piping tester. Has pressure gauge and hose valve. Very handy when diagnosing possible boost leaks without engine running. Connects to turbo inlet piping. $15 + shipping.

ALH Boost tester

One small dark spot...otherwise pretty nice.
I can include a key.
75.00 OBO

FS 2003 mk4 glove box black

I just had another kid SO we got a bigger car. There is no room in the stable for the Jetta. It is a base model, graphite blue 5-speed manual TDI w/ sunroof for $3,700 .

It is in solid overall condition. The car has 167k miles, the engine has 158k. My wife and I have owned it since 34k and have all of the service records since the engine swap 70k ago. It runs strong, no smoke from the tail pipe or soot on the bumper.

99k - replaced engine w/ 90k brm, new stage two colt cam, new turbo, new egr, new timing belt
120k - new glow plugs, harness, 02 sensor, egr valve assembly
148k - new swaybar endlinks and wheel berrings; new brakes/pads/calipers/rotors
164k - heater hoses, new shocks
166k - New clutch/SMF/seal kit

It has been serviced by JA Autowerks and Left Lane Cars, two of the trusted mechanics on this site. It has a trailer hitch and tekonsha voyager brake controller (and 4/7pin connector) but has only towed about 2,000 mi over the course of 3 trips (1 w/ apartment furniture, 1500mi at about the 66k mi mark in a 5x8 uhaul and 2 w/ a 13' scamp camper last year (about 500 miles)).

Other it items:
1)the trunk must be opened using the key, but all other power items operate. You will get use of my Sirius/xm radio until I get around to swapping the radio in the new-to-me minivan.
2)the headliner has sagged, although only really noticeable in the back seat b/c the sunroof has kept it in place in front, and there is some cracking on the surface of the driver's seat (shown in pics)
3)it was in an accident before I purchased it at 34k, the only reason I figured it out was b/c I noticed different headlight assembly innards when I had the headlamps changed out a couple years ago.
4) the body has a few minor dings, that are not really noticeable unless you get up close and some minor paint chipping (seen in the pics). The rear bumper paint looks rough up close but is not really discernible from more than a few feet away.

Please PM me with any questions and we can go from there. Thanks.

Jim

NJ: 2006 Jetta TDI 5-speed manual, 168k miles ($3,700)

Cleaning out the garage and have a few tools that I will sell as a set. They are:

Metalnerd Serpentine Belt Tensioner Lock Pin

Crank Lock Tool PN # T10050 (BEW + BHW)

BEW Timing Belt Tensioner Keeper Plate #MNT 10008

TB Tensioner Lock Pin

Improved Pump and Cam Sprocket Pin for ALH, BEW, BRM, & BHW

Water Pump Removal Kit for new style TDI & 1.8T engines (Metalnerd)

I also have a few new BEW intercooler pipe seals (3) and what looks like a camshaft oil seal to throw in.

All of this for $40 + shipping (should all fit in a small USPS flat rate box). Here is a picture of what's for sale:

http://ift.tt/2hhba5z

BEW TB tools for sale

Getting intermittent low rail pressure. Looking for good working rail pressure regulator. This is the device located on the right end of the fuel rail.

Respectfully,
Travis

ISO CJAA Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator

200k... just drove it to Vegas and back. Never had issues. You can drive before you buy and take it to a shop for a check if you like. I'll be pulling it in the next month or so to swap the 5 speed and then, obviously, that opportunity won't be available. I'll include the nice axles. I'm swapping for the obvious reasons, plus I recently found a complete donor car for 500.00 and need to finish parting out of disposing of that ASAP.

400.00 OBO

2003 o1m

Hi All,
First off, this is not my car. It is a buddy of mine who bought this 2005 Passat sedan from Chris Farnham at VW of Langhorne back in September 2005.
.
Recently, the car starting blowing some white smoke. He took the car to one of the TDI gurus for a review. Suffice to say, the guru indicates it requires quite a bit of work. More than they want to put into the vehicle.
.
So, what he would like to know is if there is anyone on the forum willing to put out an offer on the car. He has an offer now but it looks like the car is likely going to the crusher.
.
He's asking for best offer. PM me if you wish to talk to the owner and I will get you connected.
.
The car info per owner:
1. 2005 VW Passat TDI - Dark Blue exterior, black interior
2. 150k miles
3. Car starts & runs but white smoke is present in exhaust
4. Rust on top of right front fender
5. Tires/Brakes in good condition
6. Driver's side and Passenger side drive shaft replaced 1.5 years ago (rxles.com)
7. Fuel door does not work with switch and must be open via trunk
8. Averaging 33+ mpg
.
TDI Guru feedback:
1. Turbo needs replacement
2. Timing belt needs replacement due to time since last change (not mileage). Water pump has small leak
3. Compression in engine is good and consistent across cylinders
4. Recommended a balance shaft delete
5. Cam is worn
6. Rear Driver side window does not function properly, possibly due to a missing clip in door
I know y'all will want pictures, so I told my buddy to get some to show any interested parties.
.
So is anyone interested?

Needs TLC - 2005 Passat Sedan TDI

My car is in the shop having a manual swap and some other upgrades done. I'd like to get rid of the automatic with the TCM. This was a two owner car (I'm the second got the car at around 120k) it currently has about 135k on it. The first owner was my buddies grandmother and she only used it for commuting. I had the the fluid/filter changed by 413 auto when I got it just to be preemptive, but it continues to run smooth with no issues at all. Never gave me any torque converter codes either.

It's currently at Mike's shop in Westfield mass, otherwise location will be tolland CT

I'd like to get $750 +shipping OBO

Thanks

FS: 2005 Passat TDI Automatic transmission

It seems my turbo took a big dump over the week end . Earlier in the week the high pressure hose popped off the intercooler intake . Got CEL and put it back on. Yesterday driving on the highway, I heard a pop and then no real power. Got to where I was going and shut it down. Tried to start again, it started and ran. When I tried to move it huge clouds of white smoke came out and smelled horrible - like sulfur. At idle, no smoke.

What do you think? Blown turbo or something else?

I cannot check CEL or look under the hood. The car needs to be towed and it won't be here until later.

Blown Turbo? 05 BHW TDI Passat

240,000 mostly highway miles. 43 MPG in mixed driving, 49+ MPG on highway.
6spd DSG. Clean title. One owner car. Always meticulously maintained.
Will need new turbo actuator soon or new turbo depending which way you want to go.
Many extras - winter snows on rims. Extra set of rims w summer tires that need replacing. Spoiler for trunk, fuel filters, Bentley book, rear hitch.
Text me for more info and pics - 845-818-2025

2006 Jetta TDI - Pkg 2 - NY - $2000

My big transmission project has given me a massive headache and I was hoping someone here could shed some light on the problem.

I just rebuilt my CTN trans for my 96 B4V. Car and trans have 140k on the clock. Installed a .917 4th gear(from CHA coded trans) and .658 5th along with new synchros and WaveTrac LSD. Installed a SB clutch to handle the extra juice I have on tap. I have been nursing the clutch disk for sometime now. Everything in bellhousing was replaced and all new seals installed. Rebuilt using a VAG rebuild document/manual and Bentley manual.

My problem is with reverse gear. It grinds on gate selection. When I hit the reverse lockout there is something touching that shouldn't be touching. Occurs when moving gear shift lever over to the far left BEFORE pushing forward to engage reverse. Additionally, it grinds when taking OUT of reverse if the car is still rolling. So, a grind on gate selection and a grind when taking out of reverse. This is NOT the grind associated with engaging a non synchronized gear while input shaft is still spinning.

I thought this was an adjustment issue, but I have adjusted every which way but Sunday with no real resolution. I have also been in the trans twice now looking for solution and really getting tired of that rear trans mount on R&R. Especially for a 3rd time!

What am I doing wrong? Perhaps I am dense but cant for the life of me figure out why anything would be touching just moving the selector rod up and down through the shift forks. I dont even care if this a a total face palm moment, just want her going right!

BTW, the tall 4th and 5th is how these should have come from the factory.

I'd like to do the Mk4 shifter upgrade and upgrade to Audi TT LCA bushings. Maybe the trans will be a little easier with LCA's and exhaust out of the way. :p

Transmission question

Hey guys selling some injectors and an injection pump from a ALH. Pump is a 10mm pump and the injector body's are in good condition. I would recommend new nozzles for them. There are two sets of injectors, or in other words 6 regular injectors and 2 #3 injectors.
I am looking to get 175.00 plus shipping for all of it. Let me know.
Photos I can send upon request.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

ALH injectors and Injection Pump

Hello:

I need to replace the reverse light switch on my ALH. Can it be accessed/removed by removing the air box, or do I have to remove the battery/tray as well?

Thanks.

ALH reverse light switch replacement question

Please help. My 02 Jetta TDI is driving me crazy. I have replaced the belt tensioner and a/c clutch pulley and it still turns intermittently at low speed causing a terrible squealing sound which goes away when I speed up. Any thoughts on how to correct the problem

A/c clutch pulley turning intermittently

Hi gang,

as Murphy would have it, three days before I leave for my vacation I'm getting a check engine light with these codes…

I install some Malone performance chips, and a few days later, I'm getting these codes:

00553 mass airflow sensor (G70) 48-10 Dash supply voltage – intermittent

01050 glow plug monitoring, 35–10 intermittent

00560 shareware Version to Decode all DTCs 17-10 please register/activate – intermittent

All this said, the car seems to be running just fine, with no noticeable difference before the CEL came on.

My VAGCOM set up
is the freebie, on an ancient laptop, I don't know if that's what this shareware comment is coming from, but I've not seen that before. I also haven't used this VAGCOM in several years, And wondering if something expires with it.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Steve

Installed Malone chips...CEL coming on... codes

$250.00. If you are not local, please PM for shipping cost.

Bought this radio for my 2015 Golf SportWagen. I am unable to use it because my car comes with the premium Fender system and this radio does not support it. It will fit a Volkswagen 2013 through 2015 Golf or Golf Sportwagen MKVII.

Radio is brand new, never used it. It does power up and can pick up WiFi. You can tether to your phone WiFi or personal hotspot.

There is nothing wrong with the radio. I just don't need it.

Will NOT fit a car equipped with the Fender Premium Sound System.

This radio is similar to the one described on this forum.

There is a video of a similar radio here.

• Brand Name: KLYDE
• OSD Language: Hindi,Slovenian,Turkish,Spanish,Russian,Hebrew,Ind onesia,Romanian,Finnish,Norwegian,Filipino,Hungari an,Swedish,Slovak,French,Japanese,Lithuanian,Boole an text (Dutch South Africa),Galicia,Polish,Portuguese,Swahili,Thai,Chi nese (Simplified),Dutch,Russian,Chinese (Traditional),Italian,Bulgarian,Latvian,Arabic,Cze ch,Danish,Greek,German,Malay,English,Croatian,Azer i,Korean
• Special Feature: Support Steering Wheel Control,Support 4G Network,Wifi Function,Built-In Speaker/Microphone,Support 3G Network,Support Can-Bus
• Digital Media Format: JPEG,WMA,Mp3,Mp4
• For Vehicle Brands/Model: Volkswagen
• Din: Double Din
• Golf-Year: 2013,2014,2015
• Special Features: Mobile Phone,MP3 Players,FM Transmitter,Radio Tuner,Built-in GPS,Bluetooth,Touch Screen
• Item Size: As Show
• RAM: 1G
• Material Type: Metal+Plastic
• Max External Memory: 32G
• Resolution: 1024*600
• Item Weight: 3.5kg
• TF/Micro SD Slot: 2
• Operating System: Android
• ROM: 16G
• Volkswagen Model: Golf
• Voltage: 12V
• Interface: Plug and Play
• Out Power: 45W*4
• Model Name: KD-1010
• Display Size: 10.1"
• Mirror link : Support
• OS: Android 5.1.1
• CPU: Rockchip PX3 Cortex A9, 4-core
• Main Frenqency: 1.6GHz
• CD/DVD-ROM Drive: No
• Can-Bus: Including
• Screen Size: 10.1 inches
• Use: For VW Golf 7 2013-2015

FS: VW Golf MK7 2013-15 Android 5.1.1 10.1" screen radio

I want to buy a 5th gear syncro hub in good shape for an 02b tranny in a T4 Eurovan. I know the 5th gears are the same as an 02A transmission, but parts listings look like the 02B had a different hub than the 02A. Please correct me if im wrong.
Thanks.

WTB 5th gear syncro hub for 02b

It began with my A/C not cooling and now.... NOTE: the car starts and drives fine. Biggest problem is the airbag dinger. The brakes work fine. Any ideas?

P1626 -000 Missing message from TCU
P0341-000 Camshaft position sensor Implausible Signal
P3373-000 Intake Manifold Change-Over Valve open or short to ground
P3338-000 Control Circuit Glow Plug Controller Electrical malfunction
P0245-000 Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) Short to ground
P1495-000 Switch-Over Valve for EGR Cooler (N345) Open or Short to Ground
P3101-000 Motor For intake manifold Flap (V157) Open or Short to Ground
P3103-000 Motor For intake manifold Flap (V157) Malfunction

BRAKE LIGHT ON
ANTI SKID LIGHT ON - sometimes
AIRBAG LIGHT ON

Yikes Godes Galore

Just had my turbo rebuilt, 2000 jetta tdi. Not I'm getting oil running out of my exhaust....any help please. Any suggestions on what I might say to the shop that rebuilt the turbo? This is my friends car, I'm working on it to make extra money. Now I can't sleep, very stressed about this! Chris

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

Help

I have a set of 4 floor mats for MK6 Golf or Jetta Sportwagen. No holes. Good condition. They just need to be cleaned.

Local pickup preferred. If I need to mail, send me a PM for shipping cost.

FS: Floor Mat TDI Logo Golf/JSW $60

Hello all,
Have been wanting to get a diesel car/ truck for a while. Finally pulled the trigger on a 2005 Jetta (BRM) with cam problem. With a lot of research and helpful info on these forums was able to do the cam job (replaced with all European OEM parts). The car now runs fine and idles well.....

The Problem
There is a hissing or some actuator sound coming from behind the engine, the top part. Please see the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0oXkhZSqg-A
Don't know if this is normal? Or what could be the problem. This is my first TDI and don't know how it's supposed to run, but I feel it runs good:confused:
Thanks

2006 Jetta TDI making intermittent hissing or actuator sound

one my my personal cars is now out that way and family needs a shop for incidentals.

anyone around that area?

alh tdi service near palo alto?

I have a early 2005 Jetta TDI. About 250k miles. I purchased it with 160k. I was just looking through Craigslist for another TDI for my wife to replace her commuter. I read something about chain driven oil pump and if it fails it will total the engine and that a gear driven pump is what it should have. My question is this something I should be concerned about? I have a lot of money in my TDI and completely fix what ever is needed with theory that it is getting progressively newer if that makes sense. Should I have my oil pump changed to a gear driven unit?

Repair history for background: timing belt, cam and followers, clutch assembly, egr block.

Fuel economy: 46 to 49.5 mpg consistently.

Thanks

Gear driven oil pump?

The lifetime warranty is now 90days. I know they sell a lot of junk but it may be time to move away from them completely on the small amount of good parts they sell. Limited lifetime warranty is what they believe to be the life of the part. Which is apparently 90days.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heads up about orilley auto parts.

Man, what a great little motor and car . The more experience I have with cars the more I appreciate the great, simple and straightforward engineering that is the ALH. Very easy to diagnose problems with, but also a car with generally a lack of problems.

Mine has been a rockstar. Bought very lightly used back in 2004 with 20k on it. Drove it through college and through grad school. Got killer mileage and with the addition of mods it just got better. Over the course of 140,000 miles of ownership the check engine light has appeared three times. One coolant sensor ($14) and a couple of glow plugs. ($40) I suppose a leaking head on the fuel pump at 120k counts too but thanks to the TDIclub a fairly simple DIY fix was found here.

Six years ago when fuel prices were stupid I bought a motorcycle online and ended up driving the TDI to Colorado to get it. Even with 1300 lbs of motorcycle and trailer the thing still got 36 mpg. Plenty of power in the mountains too. What a champ.

I feel kinda spoiled. For a car with the characteristics of a late ALH it's hard to go wrong.

Let's give credit where credit is due. Thanks VW.

Ode to the ALH.....

I'm selling a Mechatronics unit that has good working selanoids. It came out of a 2006 Jetta with 72k miles. The unit was replaced with a different one because once the car was up to temp it would make noise when downshifting to 2 and 1st gear when coming to a stop. Selling it as whole unit make me offer.

2006 Jetta BRM DSG Mechatronics unit for sale

Hello!

My Mk4 Jetta TDI is the first car I'm keeping long enough to even let me realize that there is a slight coolant ''consumption''.

I'd say the consumption is pretty low, I may be loosing 1/8th of an inch in the expansion tank over 3-4 months, daily driven at least 20 miles a day. (consumption might be a bit less than that well...)

Is there any ''allowable'' evaporation or something? I know this is a sealed circuit but well...

Is coolant needed to be added occasionally on good condition cars?

thanks
g.b.

Can a slight engine coolant consumption considered ''normal'' ?

So I was approaching the 300k mark and still have factory lifters and cam in my car. I am going to be doing a refresh in a few months and was wondering if anyone is running a stage 2 or higher cam. I have a stock tune with pp520's and 2.5 exhaust. This is my commuter car and am always looking for better mpg and/or better driveablity. I am most likely gonna do a factory cam and new lifters unless I see some benefits to upgrading. I really don't think a stage 2 cam is worth it but if the increased flow makes the car a little better to drive and doesnt out weigh the mpg I might go for it. Any insight from someone who has upgraded is better then numbers on paper to me at the end of the day.

What cam are you running?

So how does the fix deadlines work? My family had a recent addition and i need a bigger vehicle. given we haven't seen any fixes for the Q5 Gen2 I'd like to hold out for a buyback.

Doesn't anyone understand how that will work? Doesn't VW have a deadline to supply a fix or they must start offering buybacks on Gen2 right?

Understanding Gen2 fix deadlines and buyback possible?

$2,200 or reasonable offer. Located in southeast Wisconsin. We're moving and not taking the Passat with. 250k miles and well maintained. I've had it for around 8 yrs. Black with tan interior except the front seats are black leather from an Audi. They are heated. Everything works except the AC and the blend door. New clutch a couple of yrs ago, reman rack, axle and pads recently and rest of the front end bushings have been replaced. Body has some rust popping up, chassis is solid, both front fenders are new. Redid the headliner years ago and still looking good. Could use rear calipers and rotors again. Right rear is sticking again. Put a new cable on that side. Upgraded shifter and tower with short shift. Is my DD, but needs to go. I'd drive this anywhere, it's been very dependable. I'll get pics up tomorrow.

1997 Passat sedan

Where did you source it from?

Does it require conversion to vacuum actuated like a GTB2260VK? As well as welding a new outlet?

Would it work with the Malone stainless cast manifold?

Would love to see how it can be done.

Respectfully,
Travis

Whose got at GTB2060VKLR on their 2.0 CR TDI?

prior post here: http://ift.tt/2tQ0ZXc

tl;dr: sudden loss of power getting on the freeway, diagnosed as probable turbo failure. got home and had tons of oil in the intercooler piping. replaced turbo and all vacuum lines, the main shaft had tons of end play and there was oil all over the outside casing of the turbo. Issue persisted. replaced EGR valve, still no fix.

On to the present!

I am still getting the p1556 error code and having jumpy acceleration even after replacing the most likely culprits. I even went ahead and replaced the N75 valve with no change (the one on the driver side). I can bypass the N75 valve altogether (and I think most of the vacuum components) and it runs just fine, a bit down on power, but without the jerky acceleration. After I kill the engine I can pull the vacuum line off the reservoir bulb and I can hear the hiss of vacuum being released, so I don't think the pump is at fault.

I have a vacuum pump available but I'm not sure how to check all the lines for leaks (which is another possibility)

What do you guys think?

Also, could it be the other N75-esque valve near the middle of the firewall (under the windshield wiper cowling)?

edit: please be as descriptive as possible, this is my first turbo diesel and Volkswagen. Put it into Mustang terms if possible (we are a simple bunch)

Still having boost issues (post turbo swap)

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